Skin-Identical Ingredients

Our range focuses on skin-identical ingredients that are entirely compatible with the composition of your skin and mimic it beautifully.

These include natural moisturising factors – ceramides, cholesterol, urea, hyaluronic acid and other ingredients that mimic the lipids within your skin – all of which can integrate beautifully with your skin’s barrier and allow for penetration without disruption.

Strengthening the skin’s barrier function helps prevent inflammation and breakouts in the deeper layers of the skin as chronic inflammation ages your skin. It can significantly slow down the processes of repair and renewal.

Bio-identical ingredients that imitate the composition of the epidermis, dermis, and natural oils work in harmony with the physiology of the tissues. Your skin can easily integrate and metabolise these skin-compatible ingredients, ready to use them to produce more lipid-dense molecules. These help preserve your skin’s youthfulness, stabilising and maintaining the natural cellular skin matrix so it is less prone to potential problems that could upset healthy skin.

After all, your skin is a living organism and will respond to whatever you feed it.

Our range focuses on skin-identical ingredients that are entirely compatible with the
composition of your skin and mimic it beautifully.

These include natural moisturising factors – ceramides, cholesterol, urea, hyaluronic acid and other
ingredients that mimic the lipids within your skin – all of which can integrate beautifully with your
skin’s barrier and allow for penetration without disruption.

Strengthening the skin’s barrier function helps to prevent inflammation and breakouts in the
deeper layers of the skin, as chronic inflammation ages your skin and can significantly slow
down the processes of repair and renewal.

Bio-identical ingredients that imitate the composition of the epidermis, dermis, and natural oils
work in harmony with the physiology of the tissues. Your skin can easily integrate and metabolise these
skin-compatible ingredients, ready to use them to produce more lipid-dense molecules. This helps
preserve your skin’s youthfulness, stabilising and maintaining the natural cellular skin matrix
to be less prone to potential problems that could upset healthy skin.

After all, your skin is a living organism and will respond to whatever you feed it.

The focus of our range is on skin-identical
ingredients that are completely compatible with the
composition of your skin and mimic it beautifully.

These include natural moisturising
factors – ceramides, cholesterol, urea, hyaluronic acid,
and other ingredients that mimic the lipids within your
skin – all of which can integrate beautifully
with your skin’s barrier and allow for
penetration without disruption.

Strengthening the skin’s barrier function
helps to prevent inflammation and breakouts in the
deeper layers of the skin, as chronic inflammation ages
your skin and can significantly slow down
the processes of repair and renewal.

Bio-identical ingredients that imitate the
composition of the epidermis, dermis, and natural
oils work in harmony with the physiology of the tissues.
Your skin can easily integrate and metabolise these
skin-compatible ingredients, ready to use them
to produce more lipid-dense molecules.

These help to preserve your skin’s
youthfulness, stabilising and maintaining the natural
cellular skin matrix so it is less prone to potential
problems that could upset healthy skin.

After all, your skin is a living organism and will
respond to whatever you feed it.

 

Ceramides
Ceramides are essential for the normal organisation of tissues into structures responsible for maintaining your skin’s barrier function, keeping it supple and moist. Their signalling functions include regulating the proliferation, differentiation, and apoptosis of skin cells.

Found in our skin at about 50% by mass, they play a vital role in the integrity of the epidermis by serving as the primary storage area for Linoleic Acid. These lipids are abundant in the skin’s tissue, where they have a binding role in the lipid layers of the stratum corneum.

Ceramides decrease as we age; clinical studies have found that we lose so much by the time we reach the age of 50 that the upper layers of the skin can be 30% thinner. A decrease in ceramides can lead to dry skin and an impaired barrier due to a reduction in the efficacy of the stratum corneum’s ability to keep water in and daily assaults out.

 

Cholesterol
Your skin has a unique composition of 50% Ceramides, 25% Cholesterol, and 15% Free Fatty Acids. Cholesterol is one of three main lipids found within your skin, playing a role in maintaining cell membrane and barrier function integrity. Keeping your skin soft and supple, they aid in various dry skin conditions, including xerosis, ichthyosis, and different types of dermatitis. Cholesterol works to strengthen the outer structure of the skin and protect it from dehydration. Cholesterol also functions to repair skin that has been stripped of its natural lipids by things like exfoliating or applying aggressive anti-ageing treatment.

 

Copper Peptide – INCI 1 GHK – Cu
Also referred to as Coppertripeptide-1 GHK-Cu, it promotes the production of Glycosaminoglycans, which are essential for maintaining healthy, youthful, and correctly hydrated levels in your skin. Structural proteins within the skin naturally decrease in quantity with time, and clinical research has found that Coppertripeptide-1 GHK-Cu replenishes these proteins, supporting collagen synthesis through rebuilding the skin’s structural matrix and providing very effective cellular regeneration properties. It also provides a protective antioxidant layer and stimulates the healing of micro-wounds.

You can find this in our DNA Age-Delay Complex.

 

Co-Enzyme Q10 – INCI UBIQUINONE
Coenzyme Q10 is also referred to as ubiquinone (“ubiquitous quinone”) because it is present in humans, animals, and plants. It is involved in energy metabolism in all human cells and is required to make new collagen. The topical application of Co-Enzyme Q10 helps restore your cells’ mitochondrial activity and increases energy production. This promotion of collagen synthesis makes it extremely useful in treating age-associated skin changes. Its antioxidant effect prevents DNA mutations caused by oxidative damage and decreases pigmentation. It has a unique capability to protect against infrared-A radiation, which, coupled with its anti-inflammatory effect, is beneficial not only for UV-damaged skin but also for supporting wound healing – thus making it the perfect addition when treating ageing hyperpigmented skin.

 

Creatine Pyruvate
This molecule is synthesised naturally in your body but depletes with age. It is involved in energy use and transfer, maintaining constant energy flow inside the cell.

Creatine activates collagen synthesis and protects skin from degeneration during ageing. Sagging of the skin can be addressed by applying creatine topically; furthermore, creatine-treated skin was shown to regenerate faster. Its ability to decrease wrinkles and sagging by restoring skin firmness and elasticity made it a perfect choice to include in our Betox Lifting Complex. Another essential benefit of creatine is UV damage protection, as it helps protect cellular structures (especially the mitochondria within the cell) from oxidative stress and mutations.  Creatine is a delicate ingredient; we pair it with Co-Enzyme Q10 and other antioxidants to protect it.

 

Hyaluronic Acid – INCI HYLAURONATE
A naturally-occurring substance vital to the skin, nearly 50% of the body’s hyaluronic acid is found in the skin, contributing significantly to cellular activities essential to skin health. Hyaluronic acid stabilises the spaces between the cells of the dermis, where it acts as a moisture sponge; water attaches to the molecule to retain water reservoirs in the tissue, plumping and firming to reduce the visibility of expression lines and improve skin elasticity. Hyaluronic acid, therefore, is an essential compound in the skincare industry. It is also unique because it promotes wound healing, making it an ideal topical treatment to heal the skin after micro-needling. Hylauronic comes in different molecular sizes, from low to high, measured in Daltons, which we discuss in more detail here.

 

NAG – INCI N-ACETYL  GLUCOSAMINE
A little-known but essential ingredient for the skin is NAG, a monosaccharide derivative of glucose. It is naturally produced in your body by adding an amino group to a glucose molecule. It has several functions in your body, but the most important is its combination with glucuronic acid. It then forms a compound called Hyaluronic Acid – a key component of body tissue most abundant in the skin. Since N-Acetyl Glucosamine can be metabolised into Hyaluronic Acid, it can help to increase your skin’s water content. It is also known to increase collagen production and elasticity of the skin, accelerating the speed of wound healing and natural exfoliation.

It is also a skin-identical ingredient that can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. A key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis is Tyrosinase, initially produced in the cell as an inactive pro-enzyme, glycosylated to the active form. Whilst N-Acetyl Glucosamine, which is sugar itself, is not a direct inhibitor of Tyrosinase, it does inhibit the activation of the enzyme, resulting in a significant reduction of melanin.

NAG works particularly well with Niacinamide to eliminate the formation of dark spots and uneven skin tone. When used together, the benefits are enhanced – a blend of N-Acetyl Glucosamine 2% and Niacinamide 4% produces visible improvement in pigmentation after eight weeks.

 

Pro-Vitamin B5 – INCI  PANTHENOL
Otherwise referred to as Panthenol, Pro-Vitamin B5 has a natural affinity with the skin. It works to stabilise the skin barrier, soothe irritation, promote wound healing, improve skin texture, and boost hydration levels, plumping the skin and reducing expression lines.

Like the other complex B-vitamins, Vitamin B5 plays a vital role in helping the body maintain homeostasis; Panthenol is converted in the skin into Pantothenic Acid, a component of Co-Enzyme A that is a crucial molecule used for cellular metabolism. One of its primary functions is to convert fats, proteins, and carbohydrates into energy in a process called respiration. It’s also known for its role in maintaining healthy skin, keeping it soft and smooth. Deeply hydrating keeps skin quenched by absorbing moisture from the air and has an anti-inflammatory effect that can help stimulate your skin’s healing processes. Follow the link to find out more about this vital vitamin.

 

Phospholipids – INCI LECITHIN
Phospholipids make up the wall of cellular membranes; applied topically, they seamlessly integrate into the skin structure, helping to maintain cellular health and correct problems with the barrier function. Recent studies have shown that topically-applied phospholipids, derived from soy lecithin, effectively mimic and enhance the skin’s ability to retain moisture and protect it from external factors. They are readily taken up by skin cells, promoting deep penetration of biological substances into the epidermis.

As a hygroscopic molecule – meaning they attract and hold water when an increased level of hydration is required – they are beneficial for improving several conditions by calming inflammation and irritation, softening hardened keratin, boosting hydration levels, and lowering the rate of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a non-occlusive film over the skin that locks water in the skin’s tissues.

NOTE: We use phospholipids in many of our formulas; functioning as an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer, Lecithin promotes the deep absorption of biologically active substances into the skin.

 

Sodium PCA – INCI SODIUM PYROGLUTAMATE
Sodium Pyroglutamate occurs naturally in human skin, but levels decline with age. Sodium PCA is a derivative of Glutamic Acid – a very hygroscopic component of the ‘natural moisturising factor that works as a humectant to bind water molecules to the skin. Sodium PCA has also been shown to repair the skin’s barrier function, protecting your skin from inflammation and imbalance.

 

Squalane
A natural component of your skin’s lipid barrier, Squalane is found in the Stratum Corneum’s physical and chemical structure, making it essential if you suffer from skin conditions such as inflammation and dryness.

It is very similar to your sebum, making it an essential oil for balancing and regulating the amount of sebum (oil) on the surface of your skin.

Ageing causes the amount of Squalane in your skin to decline, leaving it rough, dry, and vulnerable; Squalane’s unique structure and antioxidant-rich properties help to ward off premature ageing. Shielding your skin from environmental stressors also acts as a quencher of singlet oxygen, preventing lipid peroxidation that is partly responsible for ageing.

 

Urea
An essential molecule in the body, it has been found to retain water in extremely dehydrated skin when used in low concentrations, and higher concentrations display keratolytic effects. Its ability to keep skin smooth makes it a functionally appropriate substance for treating severe skin conditions. Urea has such an affinity with your skin that we have dedicated an entire article to it, which you can read all about here.

 

Vitamin A – INCI RETINOL
Skin is a major retinoid-responsive tissue. Cells in both the epidermis and dermis contain proteins and receptors that mediate the biological effects of Vitamin A metabolites in your skin. Retinol is considered the gold standard anti-ageing ingredient and has the most clinical trials in treating ageing skin. Retinol is a profoundly penetrative form of stabilised Vitamin A transformed into Retinoic Acid in the epidermis. In vivo, clinical studies of stabilised retinol have shown a 14% reduction in visible wrinkles after 28 days of application. Vitamin A supports collagen formation and promotes the regeneration of the skin, making it ideal for the treatment of prematurely aged skin.

It is also highly balancing, helping improve the look of sagging, stretched pores, normalising pore function, and protecting pores from further stretching, for a dramatically smoother, younger-looking complexion.

 

Vitamin B3 – INCI NIACINAMIDE
Vitamin B3 is a multitasking powerhouse that is essential for skin health.

This form of B-Vitamin, also known as Niacinamide, enriches your body with two molecules: NAD+ and NADP+. These molecules are essential in helping your cells carry out their functions properly. Vitamin B3 is not stored in your body naturally; applying it topically is vital for skin health. Niacinamide increases essential structural components in the skin, including keratin, collagen, and ceramides. It decreases hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the transfer of melanin from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte; this disruption helps fade age spots, sun damage, red or blotchy skin, and sallow complexions. Niacinamide assists in minimising inflammation, regulating oil gland activity, and research has found it to be more effective than topical antibiotics.

 

Vitamin C – INCI ETHYL-ASCORBIC ACID
Very few ingredients offer successful penetration beyond the stratum corneum – your outer layer of skin – as much as Vitamin C. A remarkable antioxidant that can scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) protects your skin from oxidative stress. L-Ascorbic acid stimulates collagen synthesis by inducing fibroblast proliferation and promoting cross-linking between molecules, stabilising the collagen matrix. It is excellent for treating dark spots as it reduces pigmentation by suppressing the enzyme Tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin synthesis. L-Ascorbic Acid is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient that reduces wrinkles, improves skin elasticity, and protects against UV damage.

NOTE: We use Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in our formulas, a molecule produced by modifying Ascorbic Acid. The modification helps to enhance its transport through the skin. Once it penetrates, the Vitamin C is restored to its natural, healing form; this slow release also ensures no toxic effects when using this particular derivative. It also helps promote nerve cells’ growth, guaranteeing activity for maximum activity on target cells.

 

Vitamin E – INCI TOCOPEROL
The term “Vitamin E” does not refer to a single molecule but two classes of molecules with similar structures, comprising a family of eight substances. Tocopherols are, however, the most abundant form of Vitamin E found in the skin, consisting of four different forms (α-, β-, γ-, and δ-tocopherol). Considered the primary lipid-soluble antioxidant utilised by the skin, it is present in the lipophilic portion of the cell membrane. Levels of Tocopherol decrease with age due to trauma and sun exposure. Applied topically, it acts as reliable antioxidant protection against environmental damage, serving as a scavenger for free radicals which are destructive to the cell membrane. By inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen in the dermis, it protects existing collagen and increases the production of new collagen.

 

 

 

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