Ceramides | Cholesterol | Copper Peptide | Co-Enzyme Q10 | Creatine Pyruvate
Hyaluronic Acid | N-Acetyl Glucosamine | Pro-Vitamin B5 | Phospholipids | Sodium PCA
Squalane | Urea | Vitamin A | Vitamin B3 | Vitamin C | Vitamin E.

Skin Identical Ingredients

Ceramides

Ceramides are essential for the normal organisation of tissues into structures responsible for maintaining your skin’s barrier function, keeping it protected, supple and moist.

Their signalling functions include regulating skin cell proliferation, differentiation, and apoptosis.

Ceramides are a skin-identical ingredient found in your skin at about 50% by mass; they play a vital role in the integrity of the epidermis (your outer layer of skin) by serving as the primary storage area for linoleic acid, which is abundant in your skin’s tissue and plays a crucial role in your barrier function.

Ceramides decrease as we age; clinical studies have found that we lose so much by the time we reach the age of 50 that our skin can be 30% thinner, which is why it is so important to replenish them topically.

If your skin experiences a significant drop in ceramides, it can lead to dry, flaky skin conditions and sensitivity, impairing your protective barrier.

For this reason, you can find them in high concentrations in our Barrier repair duo, our Ceramide barrier repair balm, and our A+ skin shot.

Cholesterol

Your skin has a unique composition of 50% Ceramides, 25% Cholesterol, and 15% Free Fatty Acids.

Cholesterol is one of three lipids in your skin that helps maintain the cell membrane and barrier function. It also helps to keep your skin soft and supple, preventing dry skin conditions like xerosis, ichthyosis vulgaris, and eczema.

Cholesterol also plays a big role in strengthening and replenishing your skin, which is why it can be found in our repairing formulas, Fortify barrier repair cream and Immortelle pro age cream.

 

Copper Peptide – INCI 1 GHK – Cu

Also referred to as Coppertripeptide-1 GHK-Cu, peptides promote the production of Glycosaminoglycans–essential components for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. They also support levels of hydration in your skin.

As we age, structural proteins decrease in quantity over time. Clinical research has found that Coppertripeptide-1 GHK-Cu replenishes these proteins, supporting collagen synthesis by rebuilding your skin’s structural matrix.

Coppertripeptide-1 GHK-Cu also provides a protective antioxidant layer over your skin to remove damaging free radicals.

They are incredible skin strengtheners and help to stimulate the healing of micro-wounds, making them ideal for treating skin sensitivity,

You can find them in our DNA Age-Delay Complex.

 

Co-Enzyme Q10 – INCI UBIQUINONE

Co-enzyme Q10 is also called ubiquinone (ubiquitous quinone) and is present in humans and animals, where it is involved in energy metabolism and making new collagen.

The topical application of Co-Enzyme Q10 helps restore your cell’s mitochondrial activity and increases energy production.

It also promotes collagen synthesis, making it extremely useful in treating age-related skin changes. Its antioxidant properties help prevent DNA mutations in your skin caused by oxidative damage.

Coenzyme Q10 is extremely skin-lightening, and it also has a unique ability to protect against infrared-A radiation, which, when coupled with its anti-inflammatory effects, is beneficial not only for UV-damaged skin but also for supporting wound healing – thus making it the perfect addition when treating ageing and hyper-pigmented skin conditions.

This wonderful ingredient is found in Immortelle pro age cream and Glo skin shot.

 

Creatine Pyruvate

This molecule is synthesised naturally in your body but depletes with age. Its role is to maintain constant energy flow inside the cell.

Creatine activates collagen synthesis and protects your skin from degeneration during ageing. Skin sagging can be addressed by applying creatine topically, and studies have found that creatine-treated skin regenerates much faster.

Another essential benefit of creatine is UV damage protection, as it helps protect cellular structures – especially the mitochondria within your cell from oxidative stress and mutations.

Its ability to decrease wrinkles and sagging by restoring skin firmness and elasticity made it a perfect choice to include in our Betox Lifting Complex.

 

Hyaluronic Acid – INCI HYLAURONATE

This is a naturally-occurring substance that is vital for your skin.

Nearly 50% of the body’s natural hyaluronic acid is found in your skin, contributing significantly to cellular activities essential to skin health.

Unfortunately, it depletes with age, which is why replenishing it topically is so important.

This skin-identical ingredient stabilises the spaces between the dermis cells, acting as a moisture sponge. Water attaches to the molecule to retain water reservoirs in the tissue, plumping and firming it to reduce the visibility of expression lines and improve skin elasticity.

Hyaluronic acid is unique in the fact that it promotes wound healing, making it an ideal topical for ‘post-treatment’ after micro-needling, laser and chemical peels.

The type of Hyaluronic acid you use is important; it comes in different molecular sizes, from low to high, which are measured in Daltons, which we discuss in more detail here.

You can find hyaluronic acid in our hero product H20 hydrating skin shot.

 

NAG – INCI N-ACETYL  GLUCOSAMINE

A little-known but essential ingredient for the skin is NAG, a monosaccharide derivative of glucose.

It is naturally produced in your body by adding an amino group to a glucose molecule.

It has several functions in your body, but its most important function is its combination with glucuronic acid, which forms Hyaluronic Acid.

Since N-Acetyl Glucosamine can be metabolised into Hyaluronic Acid, it can help to increase your skin’s water content. It is also known to increase collagen production and elasticity and accelerate the speed of wound healing and natural exfoliation.

It is also a skin-identical ingredient that can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. A key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis is Tyrosinase, initially produced in the cell as an inactive pro-enzyme, glycosylated to the active form.

Whilst N-Acetyl Glucosamine (which is sugar itself) is not a direct inhibitor of Tyrosinase, it does inhibit the activation of the enzyme, resulting in a significant reduction of melanin. In simple terms, it helps to lighten dark patches and stubborn melasma and chloasma.

NAG works particularly well with Niacinamide to eliminate the formation of dark spots and uneven skin tone. When combined, the benefits are greatly enhanced–a blend of N-Acetyl Glucosamine 2% and Niacinamide 4% produces visible improvement in pigmentation after eight weeks.

This is why we use this combination in our B+ niacinamide skin shot, which helps calm inflamed breakouts and inflammatory acne and targets the look of uneven skin tone and post-acne marks (PIH).

 

Pro-Vitamin B5 – INCI  PANTHENOL

Otherwise referred to as Panthenol, Pro-Vitamin B5 has a real natural affinity with your skin.

It stabilises your skin’s barrier, soothes irritation, promotes wound healing, improves skin texture, and boosts hydration levels, plumping your skin and reducing expression lines.

Like the other complex B vitamins, it plays an important role in helping your body to maintain homeostasis – Panthenol is converted in the skin into Pantothenic Acid, a component of Co-Enzyme A; it is a crucial molecule used for cellular metabolism.

One of its primary functions is to convert fats, proteins, and carbohydrates into energy in respiration. It’s also known for maintaining healthy skin and keeping it soft and smooth.

If that isn’t enough, it is also deeply hydrating, keeping your skin plump and dewy by absorbing moisture from the air.

To find out more about this vital vitamin, follow the link.

 

Phospholipids – INCI LECITHIN

Phospholipids make up the wall of cellular membranes. When applied topically, they seamlessly integrate into your skin’s structure, helping maintain cellular health and correct problems with your barrier function.

Recent studies have shown that topically-applied phospholipids derived from soy lecithin effectively mimic and enhance your skin’s ability to retain moisture and protect it from external factors.

Skin cells readily take them up, promoting deep penetration of biological substances into the epidermis, your outer layer of skin.

As a hygroscopic molecule–meaning it attracts and holds water when an increased level of hydration is required–phospholipids are beneficial for improving several conditions; calming inflammation and irritation, softening hardened keratin, boosting hydration levels, and lowering the rate of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a non-occlusive film over your skin that locks water in the tissues of your skin.

NOTE: We use phospholipids in many of our formulas, where it functions as an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer–promoting the deep absorption of biologically active substances into your skin.

 

Sodium PCA – INCI SODIUM PYROGLUTAMATE

Sodium Pyroglutamate occurs naturally in your skin, but levels quickly decline as you age.

It is a derivative of Glutamic Acid – a hygroscopic component of your ‘natural moisturising factor’ that works as a humectant to bind water molecules to your skin.

It has also been shown to repair the skin’s barrier function, protecting your skin from inflammation and imbalance; you can read more on this wonderful humectant here.

 

Squalane

A natural component of your skin’s lipid barrier, Squalane is found in your skin’s physical and chemical structure.

It is an entirely skin-identical ingredient similar to sebum (oil), making it an essential lipid to use topically for balancing and regulating the amount of sebum (oil) on the surface of your skin.

Ageing causes Squalane levels to decline, leaving it rough, dry, and vulnerable; when applied topically, Squalane’s unique structure and antioxidant-rich properties shield your skin from environmental stressors, acting as a quencher of singlet oxygen whilst also preventing lipid peroxidation responsible for premature ageing.

 

Urea

This skin-identical ingredient – is an essential molecule found in your body that does a great job of retaining water even in extremely dehydrated skin – when used in low concentrations.

When used in high concentrations, it displays keratolytic effects – naturally exfoliating and keeping your skin smooth – it also works as an important penetration enhancer for other ingredients.

Because Urea has such a unique affinity with the skin, we have dedicated an entire article to it, which you can read here.

 

Vitamin A – INCI RETINOL

Your skin is a major retinoid-responsive tissue – cells in your skin contain proteins and receptors that mediate the biological effects of retinol, which metabolises in your skin.

Retinol is a profoundly penetrative form of stabilised Vitamin A, transforming into Retinoic Acid in your epidermis (your outer layer of skin).

In vivo, clinical studies of stabilised retinol have shown a 14% reduction in visible wrinkles after just 28 days of application.

It is also an important multi-tasker; not only does it support collagen formation and promote skin regeneration, making it ideal for treating prematurely aged skin, but it is also extremely balancing, helping to improve the look of sagging skin, and stretched pores. Infact, if you are concerned with stretched pores, this is one ingredient you can’t ignore; it works hard to normalise pore function and protect your pores from further stretching, giving you a dramatically smoother, younger-looking complexion.

You can find this in our two pro ageing formulas, Immortelle and A+ retinol skin shot.

 

Vitamin B3 – INCI NIACINAMIDE

Vitamin B3 is a multitasking powerhouse that is essential for your skin’s health.

This form of B-Vitamin, also known as Niacinamide, enriches your body with two molecules: NAD+ and NADP+. These molecules are essential in helping your cells carry out their functions properly.

Applying it topically is vital for skin health. Niacinamide increases essential structural components in your skin, including keratin, collagen, and ceramides.

It also decreases those stubborn dark spots on your skin by inhibiting the transfer of melanin from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte; this disruption helps fade age spots, sun damage, red or blotchy skin, and sallow complexions.

As if that wants enough, Niacinamide assists in helping to minimise inflammation and regulate oil gland activity.

If you want to try out this fascinating ingredient, you can find it in our B+ niacinamide skin shot.

 

Vitamin C – INCI ETHYL-ASCORBIC ACID

Very few ingredients offer successful penetration beyond the stratum corneum – your outer layer of skin – as much as Vitamin C, another crucial skin-identical ingredient.

Another multi-tasker is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient that reduces wrinkles, improves skin elasticity and protects against UV damage.

A remarkable antioxidant that can scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), protecting your skin from oxidative stress.

L-Ascorbic acid stimulates collagen synthesis by inducing fibroblast proliferation and promoting cross-linking between molecules, stabilising the collagen matrix.

It is excellent for treating dark spots as it reduces pigmentation by suppressing the enzyme Tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin synthesis.

NOTE: We use Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in our formulas; this ingredient is a molecule produced by modifying Ascorbic Acid. The modification helps to enhance its transport through the skin.

Once it penetrates, the ethyl ascorbic acid is restored to its natural, healing form; this slow release also ensures no toxic effects when using this particular derivative.

It also helps promote nerve cells’ growth, guaranteeing activity for maximum activity on target cells.

You can find this gorgeous ingredient in our C+ ascorbic acid skin shot.

 

Vitamin E – INCI TOCOPEROL

The term “Vitamin E” does not refer to a single molecule but two classes of molecules with similar structures, comprising a family of eight substances.

Tocopherols are, however, the most abundant form of Vitamin E found in your skin, consisting of four different forms (α-, β-, γ-, and δ-tocopherol). Considered the primary lipid-soluble antioxidant utilised by the skin, it is present in the lipophilic portion of the cell membrane.

Levels of Tocopherol decrease with age due to trauma and sun exposure. Applied topically, it acts as reliable antioxidant protection against environmental damage, serving as a scavenger for free radicals destructive to the cell membrane.

By inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen in the dermis, it protects existing collagen and increases the production of new collagen.