Natural ingredients

Why Rose Hip Seed Oil is the Holy Grail Facial Oil in 2024

Dry skin? Fixed.

Fine lines? It’ll help with those, too.

Chapped by wind? It’ll put an end to that.

Whatever your skin concerns, rose hip seed oil has you covered.

Upon application, this lovely oil soaks in immediately.

Allowing that golden goodness to shine right through.

Here at the NC, we are a Medici of oils, if you like.

And we believe that gorgeous rose hip seed oil should be a staple in your skincare kit.

Rose Hip Seed Oil 

Rosehip seed oils’ benefits read like a beauty resume, so long that you may struggle to get past the first page.

It is rich, nourishing, incredibly healing, and ultimately earthy and unique for all skin types.

It’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and moisturising while packed with insane amounts of antioxidants and Vitamin A.

We love everything to do with rose hip seed oil: the antioxidants, the beta carotenes, the lovely omegas, and its tretinoin content, which converts into retinol upon application with your skin.

All of these factors increase skin thickness, ward off premature ageing, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and so much more.

Why is Extraction so Important?

The rose hip is a small fruit left over when the wild rose petals fall off; the delicate fruits hang until hand-picked and pressed into a gorgeous elixir.

The wild rose grows in thick, spiny bushes, protecting the delicate flowers and seeds. These are attached to hair-like fronds, the basis of itching powder.

The extraction process is an intricate process called winterisation, where heavy waxes are removed by refrigeration, drying and de-hipping, followed by pressing. This allows the oil to be more workable and user-friendly.

There are three main ways of extracting the oil with solvents: cold pressing, treating it with enzymes before cold pressing, and solvent extraction.

The simple cold-pressing technique is thought to yield up to seven times more tretinoin in the final oil than using a solvent, which is far from a trivial difference.

Because extraction is so labour-intensive, corners are often cut for purity, so the oil is not always the purest.

Which is why we go to such lengths to source ours.

The article on the CO₂ extraction process looks at the critical points to the quality of the final oil.

Rose Hip Seed Oil  Benefits

Now, to the exciting part: we will discuss rosehip seed oil’s lovely healing benefits.

#1 Lightens lightly pigmented areas

This is thanks to the beta-carotene content, and Rosehip can help promote a more even skin tone and reduce the appearance of age spots.

This is due to the trans-retinoic acid, the precursor to Vitamin A, and its antioxidant properties, tannins, and gorgeous orange carotenoids.

#2 Barrier Repairing

The oil is extremely rich in linoleic and linolenic acids, so it’s perfect for sensitive, inflamed, or even breakout-prone skin.

Research (1) found rose hip seeds contain important lipid-soluble compounds, linoleic and a-linolenic acids. Essential fatty acids that keep your skin plump and moist, preventing it from drying out.

They have noticeable effects on skin regeneration and repair and can significantly help to reduce inflammation in those with sensitive skin issues.

#3 Anti-scarring agent

Rosehip oil has been used for quite some time in traditional medicine for wound healing and as a topical scar treatment.

This is due to the presence of Vitamin A, combined with the large amounts of linoleic and linolenic acids, effectively treating hypertrophic and keloid scars.

This study (2) found that using rosehip seed oil on patients post-surgery improved the look of their scars.

#4 Anti-ageing agent

Rosehip seed oil helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles as it regenerates cells, slowing skin ageing.

Rosehip seed oil is exceptional in tissue regeneration, improving skin texture and discolouration.

It is also used to treat damaged skin tissue caused by scalds, burns, stretch marks, and varicose veins due to its ability to encourage skin regeneration.

In this study, (3) participants aged 35–65 were given rose hip seed powder to treat premature ageing, including wrinkles and crowfeet.

During the 8-week study, researchers found that the participants who orally ingested the rosehip powder experienced noticeable improvements in their skin’s overall moisture.

Why is Rosehip Seed Oil Unique?

The ingredient in rosehip oil that is especially interesting is trans-retinoic acid, which the industry refers to as tretinoin.

It is a close relative of Vitamin A and the most researched vitamin in skincare, especially for acne. It also has a strong anti-ageing effect.

Tretinoin molecules are delicate and must be handled carefully; the tretinoin in rose hips is just as sensitive as the tretinoin in pharmaceuticals.

The other important properties include:

Oleic acid (Omega 9) has an interesting fatty acid profile, softening and moisturising your skin.
Linoleic acid (Omega 6) helps speed up the barrier function’s repair mechanisms.
Gamma-linolenic acid helps reduce inflammation and boosts the protective role of the skin’s barrier.
Phytosterols help to soothe and calm inflamed skin.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) acts as an antioxidant, neutralising damaging free radicals.

Fatty acid profile:

Palmitic acid 3.6%
Stearic acid 2.15%
Oleic acid 15%
Linoleic acid 47.7%
Linolenic acid 28.5%
Arachidic acid 0.9%
Eicosenoic acid 0.45%
Eicosadienoic acid 0.15%
Behenic acid 0.2%
Docosenoic acid 0.15%
Natural d-alpha-tocopherol 0.1%

Wound-Healing/Anti-Scar Recipe

3-5% Sea Buckthorn
2-3% Carrot seed
1% Calendula CO₂
1% Rosemary
1% Comfrey
3% Helichrysum, known for its regenerative ketones

Add the above ingredients to our rosehip seed oil base.

What to Look for When Buying Rosehip Oil

Like all good things in life, this gorgeous elixir does have its downside.

It is a bit like “buyer, beware”, especially regarding the oil’s purity and dynamic nature.

It would help if you were careful because the cold-pressed version has no long shelf life and can quickly go rancid due to the wonderful unsaturated bonds.

Rosehip oil only has a shelf life of about six months, so here at the Naked Chemist, we only use a CO₂ extract that is certified organic, obtained through supercritical extraction that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent.

The oil is then further stabilised with Vitamin E to give it longevity.

Which NC Products Contain it?

With all of these incredible benefits, it makes sense to harness the potent power of the CO₂ extracted oil neat in our cold-pressed Rose Hip Oil.

It can also be found in Xcell Barrier repair oil, which is the perfect formula for restoring an impaired barrier.

Nectar Antioxidant Balm, rich in rosehip seed oil, is created to heal on a deeper level and deliver delicate, traumatised skin from irritation and inflammation.

To conclude. The naked truth

To recap, rose hip seed oil has excellent antioxidants and free radical scavenger benefits.

It is highly moisturising, and the oleic acid helps make it a superb softening oil.

It has excellent barrier repair and anti-anti-inflammatory properties from all the linoleic and linolenic acids.

If that is not enough, it also helps with signs of photo-ageing and scar reduction.

Wow, with all these lovely benefits, we think you’d agree this could be the holy grail of skincare and one you should invest in for your kit.

References

  1. Jäger AK, Petersen KN, Thomasen G, Christensen SB. Isolation of linolenic and alpha-linolenic acids as COX-1 and -2 inhibitors in rose hip. Phytother Res. 2008;22:982–984
  2. Valerón-Almazán, P. , Gómez-Duaso, A. , Santana-Molina, N. , García-Bello, M. and Carretero, G. (2015) Evolution of Post-Surgical Scars Treated with Pure Rosehip Seed Oil. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications5, 161-167. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2015.52019.
  3. Winther K, Vinther Hansen AS, and Campbell-Tofte J. (2016). Bioactive ingredients of rosehips (Rosa canina L) with particular reference to antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties: in vitro studies. Botanics: Targets and Therapy 6: 11–23.

93 replies on “Why Rose Hip Seed Oil is the Holy Grail Facial Oil in 2024”

Hi Samantha. Thank you for such an informative website! A lot of the information contained here was just what I was looking for. I’m relatively new to oils and have embarked on a complete overhaul of my daily routine incorporating oils into my cleansing and moisturizing routine. I am however slightly overwhelmed by the sheer volume of information on oils, their composition and how they interact with individual skin types. I have very sensitive, dry in patches, oily T-zone and quite congested skin which is extremely frustrating as it falls into a number of categories. I’ve been using a combination of jojoba, avocado and sweet almond oil as my cleansing oil and following up wth rose hip and sweet almond oil as my moisturizer. I worried my skin may become clogged up with the oleic acids in my cleanser and have noticed some bumpy areas but as I haven’t been doing it very long in assuming it’s purging? I’m determined to continue with this natural method as my skin is so reactive to conventional face creams etc and cosmetics also. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I feel I’m confusing my skin a little?

Hi Lee Ann
Thank you so much for reaching out to me. It’s so tricky for me to diagnose without first seeing your skin, but ideally Lee ann you certainly sound like you need to customise your skin care routine. I would monitor your skin to see how it is reacting to the oils, have you read my articles on oils? https://thenakedchemist.com/glossary-of-the-best-oils-for-skin/ over time, I am not sure about the purging by the way? I think less is best if your skin is super combination and bumpy you may need to use some gentle peels to help break down bacteria. I wld also avoid extracts in products and fragrances and essential oils as they can be to stimulating

Hi i really want to try rosehip in my lotion bars, i have been gathering as much info as i can as these bars are destined for family as gifts. Ive read bad reviews as well as good and as the bars are for others i need to buy the best possible, could you point me to the right suppliers please. Thank you so much your article is so informative i,l definately be visiting again

Hi Jo.Rosehip seed oil in your lotion bars sounds lovely…I am not sure where you live but for top grade in the UK I would go to Fragrant Earth or Penny Price, but it is a bit pricey and not sure if your going to get full benefit, as if you were using it neat on the skin, would love to know how you get on though enjoy formulating..

Hi, how long can I keep rosehip oil up refrigerated? I’m traveling fir 10 days and won’t have refrigerator.

Hi Analynn.I’m not implying that you have to get obsessive over your rosehip oil, I think a couple of weeks is fine to travel with it, it’s more about the purity at source your buying it from and understanding how to check it for rancidity..hope this helps

Hi Samantha,
First, thank you for this site and all of the helpful information you provide! I appreciate your professionalism, attention to detail, science- and evidence-based info, responses and practice.

I am making a mango body butter with Rose Hip Seed Oil and have selected a product using CO2 extraction, per your guidance. Due to cost I will not use this freely (or almost neat), as I have in the past, with the more affordable, cold-pressed. Therefore, I want to use just enough to be effective. I was very excited to find some additional guidance from you. In reading the following statement from your website I just want to clarify, as it reads slightly contradictory:

“Rose hip seed oil, can be applied neat on the skin or within a formulation. Using it neat suits many of our customers and we have seen good results with inclusions as low as 10%. 5% is the recommended amount to use in skin cream formulas”

Are are saying that YOU all see results as low as 10%, but the industry standard is only 5%? So I should aim for 10% right?

Many thanks!

Hi Natalie
Thanks for reaching out and for your lovely comments, really glad you find the information useful. Natalie I guess what I am trying to say is for those considering formulating, I would include at least 5% in a formulation to get any type of result, however for my clients in clinic I use up to 10% in their personalised oil blends to really get results maybe even more it all depends on the skin condition I am treating. Sometimes dare I say it even use it neat on my skin! I guess it all comes down to cost and stability; Whilst it is a lovely oil, it’s tricky because it’s shelf life is so low. When Rosehip goes rancid it pulls down the rest of the product..try the smell test yourself sometime on bottles that have been sat on department shelves for ages, sometimes you really can tell. I find many companies simply use it for marketing purposes (one very famous New Zealand company instantly springs to mind), they get away with it by adding only very small percentages, which really have no benefit at all, frustrating to see as a formulater and frustrating for customers who really want to see results, which is why education is so key..hope this goes some way to answering your question Natalie.

Hi Jonty, yes it will help to repair the skin to a point, but it’s not going to completely reverse the burns and it will also depend on the age of the burn. You may want to reach out to a company called fragrant earth in the Uk, I know they have excellent grade Rose hip oil and that the owner Jan Kusmerick has had good results with treating burns with blends he has made…good luck.

Hi!

Thank you for the very informative post. I have a question and wonder if you can help me.

I bought 2 bottles of rosehip oil recently and only opened one. I kept the unopened bottle in the refrigerator thinking that it will help “preserve” it while I wait for the first bottle to run out. And I think it would take me more than 6 months to finish the first bottle. Do u think the 2nd bottle will still be good for use after then? (I don’t plan on taking the second bottle out of the fridge.)

Hope to hear from you.

Hi, oils by their very nature are prone to oxidation reactions, which will turn them rancid over time. So Keeping your oil in the fridge can slow down that process somewhat. Take your oil out the fridge at least 12 hours before you need to use them, this will allow them to naturally adjust to room temperature, because when stored at low temperatures some carrier oils will form fatty particles..hope this helps Jo

Hello and thanks for the very informative post. So I got a bottle of rosehip oil a while ago and I opened it there yesterday it has a bit of a smell though. Like a strong oily smell. Do you think it might be oxidized? If it is do you think it’s still effective/safe to use?

Many thanks,

Sarah.

Hi Sarah

Rosehip does have a very faint odour to it.
However the strong oily smell is most certainly an indication that the fatty acids are oxidised and no longer potent and won’t give you the results you are looking for. i hope this helps a little.

Thank you for this post, so interesting !

I bought rose hip oil to treat a koleid scar. I apply it every night, and add a drop of Lavender oil. But I’ m a little confused, you say rose hip oil is ok to reduce those scars, but it is supposed to help the production of collagen too ? I trust you but I don’t want my scar to get bigger.
Thank you!

Hi Victoria
Unfortunately nothing can completely reverse scarring not even laser treatment, unless the scar is completely new.In our clinic we do are seeing some success with dermarolling but again it won’t completely reverse scarring.
How much collagen is stimulated by Rosehip seed oil is unknown, but not enough that it will make your keloid scar worse. i hope that helps and should you require any further information please do PM me.

Samantha

you need steroid treatment: straight injection directly into the scar by a dermatologist. Even this takes years to gradually stop the growth of the scar.

Rose hip oil will soften your scar after everyday use for a year or two. But don’t stop: it will not make it bigger! Only better skin. Rose hip helps all round.

I know about keloid scars because I’m from the tropics where collagen is abundant.
See also: http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/healthlibrary/conditions/dermatology/scars_85,P00313/

Hello, I just bought some rose hip oil yesterday. There was no warning of a short shelf life so thank you very much for the heads up! Would you advise storing it the refrigerator?

Hi Jennifer

i would recommend keeping your oils in a dak cool place, and do remeber it oxidses very qucikly, you can tell that by the smell.Thanks for the heads up by the way.

Regards

Samantha

Would you be able to describe what fresh rosehip oil should smell like, and what rancid rosehip oil smells like?

And what if you are adding essential oils to it? Would they make it hard to detect the rancidity, or would a person still know?

I am also wondering what rancid rosehip oik smells like. I bought some yesterday and it a very strong odor. Kind of like a cooking oil x10. What is it supposed to smell like?

I can’t explain rancid oil it is almost musty in fragrance. Note Rosehip oil does naturally have a very slight fishy odor in general. Look at the colour is it slightly orange? due to all the caretonoids and a nice rich texture? then you should be okay. hope this helps samantha

Hi Samantha. I bought cold, pressed organic rosehip oil a month ago. I’ve kept it in the fridge and take it out only when I’m using it. I kept it in the fridge for 5 days straight without taking it out. However, today when I took it out, it seemed to have frozen. It’s back to what it was before i.e normal orange oil. Is it safe to use it? Or has it gone rancid?

hello samantha miller thank you so much for posting this god sent information,you not only inspired me as a person but made my hair care line better! i cant thank you enough god bless you for eternity!

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