Dry skin? Fixed
Concerned about fine lines? It’ll help with those.
Chapped by the wind? It’ll put an end to that
Whatever your concerns rosehip seed oil has you covered, upon application this lovely oil soaks in immediately; allowing the golden goodness to shine through.
Here at the NC we are a Medici of oils if you will, and we believe this should be a staple in everyone’s skincare kit.
Rich, nourishing and intoxicating, but ultimately earthy – amazing for all skin types, it’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, moisturising, and packed with insane amounts of antioxidants and vitamin A.
What the Heck is Rose Hip Seed Oil and Why is it so Good for the Skin?
The thing we love about rosehip seed oil is the antioxidants, beta carotenes, lovely omegas and tretinoin which converts into retinol.
All of which increase skin thickness, wards off premature ageing, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and so much more – which we discuss below.
The rosehip is a small fruit that is left over when the petals of the wild rose fall off, there the delicate fruits hang until hand-picked and pressed into a gorgeous elixir.
The wild rose grows in thick, spiny bushes; which protect the delicate flowers and seeds – these are attached to the hair-like fronds which is the basis of itching powder.
The extraction process is an intricate process referred to as winterisation, where heavy waxes are removed by refrigeration which involves drying and de-hipping, followed by pressing, this allows for the oil to be more workable and user-friendly.
There are three main ways of extracting the oil; with solvents, cold pressing, or treating it with enzymes, and then cold-pressing. The simple cold-pressing technique is thought to give you up to seven times more tretinoin in the final oil than using a solvent – which is from a trivial difference.
Because extraction is so labour-intensive, corners are often cut when it comes to purity, which is why it is not always the purest oil. The article on CO₂ Extraction Process looks at the points that are critical to the quality of the final oil.
Rose Hips Oils Beautifying Benefits
It is used in many different face care preparations, for the purpose of cellular regeneration.
Anti-scarring agent: Rosehip oil has been used for quite some time in traditional medicine as a wound healing, and topical scar treatment. This is due to the precursor to vitamin A, known as trans-retinoid acid or tretinoin, this combined with the large amounts of linoleic and linolenic, is why it is effective in treating both hypertrophic and keloid scars.
Anti-ageing: Rose hip seed oil helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and it is cell regenerating, slowing down the skin ageing process. Studies on photo ageing are showing that using at as little as 6% in a formula will help to reduce fine lines caused by UV and lighten hyperpigmentation caused by of scars. This is thought to be due to the trans-retinoic acid and free radical scavengers, antioxidants, tannins, and gorgeous orange carotenoids.
Helps with lightly pigmented areas: Rosehip promotes a more even skin tone and it may help with reducing the appearance of age spots, thanks to the beta-carotene – the pre-cursor to Vitamin A as discussed above.
Anti-inflammatory agent: The fact that the oil is rich in linoleic and linolenic acid, means that it’s perfect for sensitised, inflamed skin. A study carried out in 1983 at the University of Santiago, Chile, involved participants with different skin conditions, including sun-damaged skin, premature ageing, burns, acne scarring, eczema and more. It was found that the oil had significantly noticeable effects in skin regeneration and repair, significantly reducing inflammation within the tissues of the skin.
Cellular rejuvenation: Many clinical trials have proved that rose hip seed oil is an exceptional product in the field of tissue regeneration, helping to improve skin texture and discolouration. It is also used in the treatment of damaged skin tissue caused by scalds, burns, stretch marks, and varicose veins, due to its ability to encourage skin regeneration.
Prevents dry skin conditions: Because this oil is abundant in fatty acids, it helps to keep skin cells healthy. As we age, our skin naturally starts to dry and lose water, the fatty acids work to keep the skin plump and moist, preventing it from drying out.
Why the Oil is so Unique
The ingredient in rosehip oil that is especially interesting is trans-retinoic acid or tretinoin as it is referred to in the industry. It is a close relative of vitamin A and the most researched vitamin when it comes to skincare, especially in relation to acne. Tretinoin at lower levels has also been shown to have a very anti-ageing effect.
Tretinoin molecules are very delicate and need to be handled with care, the tretinoin in rosehips is just as sensitive as the tretinoin in pharmaceuticals.
The other important properties include:
Oleic acid – Omega 9 has an interesting fatty acid profile, softening and moisturising the skin.
Linoleic acid – Omega 6 helps speed up the barrier functions repair mechanisms.
Gamma-linolenic acid, containing a small amount of GLA, it helps reduce inflammation and boosts the protective role of the skin’s barrier.
Phytosterols help to soothe and calm inflamed skin.
Tocopherol or vitamin E act as antioxidants, neutralising damaging free radicals.
Fatty acid profile: Palmitic acid 3.6%, Stearic acid 2.15%, Oleic acid 15%, Linoleic acid 47.7%. Linolenic acid 28.5%, Arachidic acid 0.9%, Eicosenoic acid 0.45%, Eicosadienoic acid o. 15%,Behenic acid 0.2%, Docosenoic acid 0.15%, Natural d-alpha-tocopherol 0.1%
With all of these wonderful benefits, it makes sense to harness the potent power of the CO₂ extracted oil neat in our cold-pressed Rosehip oil.
It can also be found in BIO Lipid Complex, the perfect formula for helping to restore an impaired barrier. Nectar Treatment Balm has been created to help with healing on a deeper level; delivering delicate, traumatised skin from irritation and inflammation is also rich in rosehip seed oil.
Because the oil only has a shelf life of 6 months, we use an organic CO₂ extract obtained through supercritical extraction that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent.
Wound-Healing/ Anti-Scar Recipe
3-5% Sea Buckthorn
2-3% Carrot seed
1% Calendula CO₂
3% Helichrysum, known for its regenerative ketones
Add the above ingredients to our rosehip seed oil base.
What to look out for when purchasing this oil
Like all good things in life, this gorgeous elixir does have its downside;
It is a little bit like buyer beware; especially when it comes to the purity and the active nature of the oil.
You need to be careful, because the cold-pressed version doesn’t have a long shelf life, and it can quickly go rancid, this is due to all the wonderful unsaturated bonds.
Rosehip oil only has a shelf life of about 6 months, so here at the Naked Chemist we only use a CO₂ extract that is certified organic, which is obtained through supercritical extraction that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent.
The oil is then stabilised further with vitamin E to give it more longevity.
The naked truth
So to recap and look at what rose hip seed oil brings to the skin: it has some great anti-oxidants and free radical scavenger benefits, it is extremely moisturising and the oleic acid helps to make it a wonderful softening oil on the skin.
It has great barrier repair and anti-inflammatory properties from all the linoleic and linolenic acid and if that is not enough, there is a possibility that it can help with signs of photo-ageing and scar reduction.
Wow, with all these lovely benefits – this really could be the holy grail of skincare.
Topical Tretinoin: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology Volume 15, Issue 4, Part 2 , Pages 836-859, October 1986• Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin Albert M. Kligman, M.D., Ph.D., Gary L. Grove, Ph.D., Ryoji Hirose, M.D., James J. Leyden, M.D.
Rosehip oil how it matters: http://colinsbeautypages.co.uk/rosehip-oil-matters-handle/
Rosehip, healthy beginnings: https://hbmag.com/rosehip-seed-oil/
Rosehip seed oil:https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/9a54/835a1190bfb45c86b0fcd42742c05e644c24.pdf
A foundation for beauty: http://www.selfimprovement.ch/web/beauty/rosehip_seed_oil_a_foundation_for_beauty