Dry skin? Fixed.
Concerned about fine lines? It’ll help with those.
Chapped by the wind? It’ll put an end to that.
Whatever your concerns are, rose hip seed oil has you covered.
Upon application, this lovely oil soaks in immediately; allowing the golden goodness to shine through.
Here at the NC, we are a Medici of oils if you will, and we believe this should be a staple in everyone’s skincare kit.
What the Heck is Rose Hip Seed Oil and Why is it so Good for the Skin?
Rich, nourishing, and intoxicating, but ultimately earthy and amazing for all skin types.
It’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, moisturising, and packed with insane amounts of antioxidants and Vitamin A.
We love just about everything to do with rose hip seed oil: the antioxidants, the beta carotenes, the lovely omegas, and its tretinoin content, which converts into retinol upon application on your skin.
All of which increases skin thickness, wards off premature ageing, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and so much more, which we discuss below.
The rose hip is a small fruit, left over when the wild rose petals fall off; there, the delicate fruits hang until hand-picked and pressed into a gorgeous elixir.
The wild rose grows in thick, spiny bushes, which protect the delicate flowers and seeds. These are attached to the hair-like fronds, which are the basis of itching powder.
The extraction process is an intricate process referred to as winterisation, where heavy waxes are removed by refrigeration, drying and de-hipping, followed by pressing. This allows the oil to be more workable and user-friendly.
There are three main ways of extracting the oil; with solvents, cold pressing, or treating it with enzymes before cold-pressing. The simple cold-pressing technique is thought to give you up to seven times more tretinoin in the final oil than using a solvent – which is far from a trivial difference.
Because extraction is so labour-intensive, corners are often cut when it comes to purity, which is why it is not always the purest oil. The article on CO₂ Extraction Process looks at the critical points to the quality of the final oil.
Rose Hip Oil’s Beautifying Benefits
It is used in many different face care preparations for cellular regeneration.
Anti-scarring agent: Rose hip oil has been used for quite some time in traditional medicine for wound healing and as a topical scar treatment. This is due to the presence of a precursor to Vitamin A, known as trans-retinoic acid or tretinoin; this, combined with the large amounts of linoleic and linolenic acids, is why it is effective in treating both hypertrophic and keloid scars.
Anti-ageing: Rose hip seed oil will help reduce your fine lines and wrinkles as it is cell regenerating, slowing down the skin ageing process. Studies on photo-ageing show that using at as little as 6% in a formula will reduce fine lines caused by UV exposure and lighten hyperpigmentation caused by scars. This is thought to be due to the trans-retinoic acid and free radical scavengers, antioxidants, tannins, and gorgeous orange carotenoids.
Helps with lightly pigmented areas: Rose hip can help to promote a more even skin tone, and it may help with reducing the appearance of age spots, thanks to the beta-carotene – the pre-cursor to Vitamin A, as discussed above.
Anti-inflammatory agent: The fact that the oil is rich in linoleic and linolenic acids means that it’s perfect if you have sensitised, inflamed skin. In 1983, at the University of Santiago, Chile, a study was carried out involving participants with different skin conditions, including sun-damaged skin, premature ageing, burns, acne scarring, eczema, and more. It was found that the oil had noticeable effects on skin regeneration and repair, significantly reducing inflammation within the tissues of the skin.
Cellular rejuvenation: Many clinical trials have proved that rose hip seed oil is an exceptional product in tissue regeneration, improving skin texture and discolouration. It is also used to treat damaged skin tissue caused by scalds, burns, stretch marks, and varicose veins, due to its ability to encourage skin regeneration.
Prevents dry skin conditions: Because this oil is abundant in fatty acids, it helps keep your skin cells healthy. As you age, your skin naturally starts to dry and lose water; the fatty acids work to keep your skin plump and moist, preventing it from drying out.
Why the Oil is so Unique
The ingredient in rose hip oil that is especially interesting is trans-retinoic acid, referred to in the industry as tretinoin. It is a close relative of Vitamin A and the most researched vitamin when it comes to skincare, especially acne. Tretinoin at lower levels has also been shown to have a strong anti-ageing effect.
Tretinoin molecules are very delicate and need to be handled with care; the tretinoin in rose hips is just as sensitive as the tretinoin in pharmaceuticals.
The other important properties include:
Oleic acid (Omega 9) has an interesting fatty acid profile, softening and moisturising the skin.
Linoleic acid (Omega 6) helps speed up the barrier function’s repair mechanisms.
Gamma-linolenic acid helps reduce inflammation and boosts the protective role of the skin’s barrier.
Phytosterols help to soothe and calm inflamed skin.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) acts as an antioxidant, neutralising damaging free radicals.
Fatty acid profile:
Palmitic acid 3.6%
Stearic acid 2.15%
Oleic acid 15%
Linoleic acid 47.7%
Linolenic acid 28.5%
Arachidic acid 0.9%
Eicosenoic acid 0.45%
Eicosadienoic acid 0.15%
Behenic acid 0.2%
Docosenoic acid 0.15%
Natural d-alpha-tocopherol 0.1%
With all of these wonderful benefits, it makes sense to harness the potent power of the CO₂ extracted oil neat in our cold-pressed Rose Hip Oil.
It can also be found in Bio Lipid Complex, the perfect formula for restoring an impaired barrier. Nectar Treatment Balm, which has been created to heal on a deeper level; delivering delicate, traumatised skin from irritation and inflammation, is also rich in rosehip seed oil.
Because the oil only has a shelf life of 6 months, we use an organic CO₂ extract obtained through supercritical extraction that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent.
3-5% Sea Buckthorn
2-3% Carrot seed
1% Calendula CO₂
3% Helichrysum, known for its regenerative ketones
Add the above ingredients to our rosehip seed oil base.
What to look out for when purchasing this oil
Like all good things in life, this gorgeous elixir does have its downside.
It is a little bit like “buyer, beware” – especially when it comes to the purity and the active nature of the oil.
It would help if you were careful, because the cold-pressed version doesn’t have a long shelf life, and it can quickly go rancid due to all the wonderful unsaturated bonds.
Rose hip oil only has a shelf life of about 6 months, so here at the Naked Chemist, we only use a CO₂ extract that is certified organic, obtained through supercritical extraction that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent. The oil is then stabilised further with Vitamin E to give it more longevity.
To recap, rose hip seed oil has some great anti-oxidants and free radical scavenger benefits. It is extremely moisturising, and the oleic acid helps make it a wonderful softening oil on the skin.
It has great barrier repair and anti-inflammatory properties from all the linoleic and linolenic acid. If that is not enough, there is a possibility that it can help with signs of photo-ageing and scar reduction.
Wow, with all these lovely benefits, we think you’d agree this really could be the holy grail of skincare.
Topical Tretinoin: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology Volume 15, Issue 4, Part 2, Pages 836-859, October 1986• Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin Albert M. Kligman, M.D., PhD, Gary L. Grove, PhD, Ryoji Hirose, M.D., James J. Leyden, M.D.
Rosehip oil how it matters: http://colinsbeautypages.co.uk/rosehip-oil-matters-handle/
Rosehip, healthy beginnings: https://hbmag.com/rosehip-seed-oil/
Rosehip seed oil:https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/9a54/835a1190bfb45c86b0fcd42742c05e644c24.pdf
A foundation for beauty: http://www.selfimprovement.ch/web/beauty/rosehip_seed_oil_a_foundation_for_beauty