You may be already experiencing it… Fine lines, wrinkles, breakouts, oily skin, or uneven texture.
As time goes on, these problems are becoming more frustrating and difficult to treat
No matter what skincare you use, you are just not getting the results you want.
But the reality is, you can’t wait forever to get results, all you really need is something that works.
So, what should you do?
Well, the first thing you need to do is adjust your approach to your products, stop looking for the next holy grail skincare cream and turn your attention to ingredients instead. You see, when it comes to many skin frustrations (from acne to ageing), retinoids are that thing.
A chemical compound that is related to vitamin A, that is deserving of taking center stage in your skincare kit, especially if you have been battling with any of the following concerns:
- skin firmness
- rough texture
- excessive oiliness
- inflamed breakouts
- fine lines and wrinkles
- skin roughness and dullness
- pigmentation from age spots
With the long list of conditions, it treats it reads like an A list product to the celebrities, and whilst you’ve no doubt heard of it, using Retinol can be another story. So for the purpose of this article, were going to cut the confusion and impart our Retinol wisdom to you, free of charge and answer all of your questions here.
Why is it the “Holy Grail” of the Skincare World?
Great question! I’m glad you asked. Retinol a topical derivative of vitamin A certainly is the most researched anti ageing ingredient in the world, in order to understand how it works, first, we need to get a little technical and understand collagen, the major structural protein in our body, which we liken to internal scaffolding – without collagen, there would be nothing to hold the cells together.
When we are young, collagen is naturally produced by the body, but as we age collagen synthesis slows down and environmental factors such as UV exposure, diet, stress, and smoking break down the collagen fibers, and the skin starts looking rough, uneven, saggy and wrinkly.
In order for Retinol to become active, it must first be converted to Tretinoin, this is done by enzymes in the skin – where it can work in a number of ways to improve skin health:
- First, it increases the amounts of collagen in the skin by inactivating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), the enzymes in the skin which actually break down collagen. These are also made more active by UV rays.
- Next, it increases cellular turnover – that is, it increases the rate at which old skin cells are replaced by new ones.
- Finally, Retinol is also an antioxidant – it blocks reactive free radicals that are generated by UV exposure or toxins in the environment, which wreak havoc in your skin.
Don’t Confuse your Retinols
But be warned, don’t confuse Retinol with its fast-acting cousin that requires a prescription. This is pure Retinoic Acid — Retin-A, Renova — to name a few brands. Retinoic Acid is Retinol’s older sister which works much more effectively, but it’s not without its side effects, such as flaky skin and inflammation.
This is an ester form of Vitamin A that has been considered a milder, though still very active, form of Vitamin A that is easily tolerated by the skin. Retinyl palmitate is converted to Retinol and Retinoic acid once it has entered the cell, which accounts for most of its effects. The palmitate moiety of the molecule seems to play a very important role; it’s a high-energy molecule that is extremely desirable to cells, which absorb it from the interstitial fluid into the intracellular compartment. The energy from palmitate is used in the conversion of Vitamin A into the various isomers of Retinoic acid. More than 80% of the Vitamin A found normally in the skin is in the form of Retinyl Palmitate. Our anti ageing moisturiser immortelle is formulated with this type of vitamin A.
This form of Vitamin A is more active than Retinyl Palmitate – about as active as Retinoic Acid (Retin-A) and is actually the form in which Vitamin A is stored by the liver.
Effects of retinyl Palmitate and Retinyl Acetate
Cell walls are not easy to penetrate; mechanisms have to exist to facilitate the transfer of chemicals from outside the cell wall, through the membrane, and into the cell itself. We have discovered that there are secret little passageways through the cell wall for various chemicals – only those with a required ‘password’, or shape, may enter any particular passageway. It has been discovered that there are places on a keratinocyte cell wall where Vitamin A, in the form of Retinyl Palmitate, Acetate, or Retinoic Acid, can enter into the cell. These are called retinoid surface receptors.
Important Information on How Retinol Works on the Skin
This is the most popular form of non-prescription Vitamin A. Retinol is converted into potent Retinoic Acid inside the keratinocytes, the cells responsible for a strong physical barrier on the skin. Retinol is less irritating to the skin than Retinoic Acid but is more irritating than Retinyl Acetate or Palmitate. It is found naturally in extremely low doses within our tissues, and when higher doses are given to the cells, the cell membranes may become damaged. This may explain why Retinol often causes mild peeling of the skin when first used. As the surfaces of the cell walls develop more retinoid receptors, the irritation disappears. Retinol is otherwise just another form of Vitamin A and will produce the same results if used in the same dosage as Retinyl Palmitate or Acetate.
Retinol is two metabolic steps away from being Retinoic Acid – this is one of the falsities that has deceived many formulators and clinicians into believing that it will deliver Retinoic Acid more efficiently than Retinyl Palmitate. What seems to be ignored is that Retinol is only one metabolic step away from Retinyl Palmitate, and that is actually the preferred metabolic route for Retinol that is applied to the skin – this is why we use Retinyl Palmitate in the Naked Chemist formulations.
Topically-applied Retinol is almost completely converted into Retinyl Palmitate and only a tiny fraction remains as Retinol that can be metabolised to Retinaldehyde and then to Retinoic Acid. Then, why use Retinol at all if it is just going to be converted into Retinyl Palmitate? One reasoning is that various isomers of Vitamin A are essential to impart the full effects, and by supplying it in its various forms, you can increase the chances of widespread Retinoic Acid isomers. The skin cells make different shapes of Retinoic Acid naturally.
This is Retinol’s ‘big sister’ that is referred to as Tretinoin, Retin-A, Renova, and others. It is thought to be the most potent form of Vitamin A, working on the DNA of the cell’s nucleus. A doctor’s prescription is required for this ingredient; however, it’s coupled with more potential side-effects such as flaky skin or redness.
This is an intermediate form of Vitamin A, one step away from Retinoic acid. Retinol is oxidised into Retinaldehyde, which is then oxidised one step further into Retinoic acid.
So what makes Retinol Better than Vitamin C or Salicylic Acid?
All of these bring wonderful things to the skin, but Retinol has a lot more research behind it. It works deep below the surface in the dermis to encourage turnover and reveal youthful, bright skin. Unlike Vitamin C and Salicylic Acid — which slough of dead cells that build up over time — Retinol promotes cellular repair on a deeper microscopic scale. It is also a true multi-tasker that has amazing skin benefits as discussed above.
How do I Get Started?
Using Retinol at night is best, and build up slowly, start with a couple of nights a week. It’s important to build up to whatever works best for your skin. Some are able to tolerate it every night, those with more sensitive skin may only be able to tolerate it every other night or even less.
In order to maximise results, long term use is best, it takes about six to eight weeks for your skin to turn over because although Retinol will speed up the process of cellular turnover, it is still going to take multiple weeks to see results.
Begin by introducing our A+ Retinol Complex into your evening routine, at 1.0% you should start seeing great results within a matter of weeks, initially use intermittently incorporating your product into your routine slowly. Vitamin A products are cosmeceuticals and can be active, especially if your skin is not used to it, which is why we recommend building this formula into your routine over time.
The Naked Truth
So how do you avoid the “uglies” and other potential side effects?
In order to mitigate the side effects build up, Retinol uses slowly, this will give your skin time to acclimate and always wear sunscreen, as Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Retinyl palmitate is the most gentle form of vitamin A, it helps those with sensitivity to Retinol to build up a tolerance. We have specifically formulated our A+ retinol complex to be gentle on the skin.
Use at the opposite end of the day to your Vitamin C. I’m not a fan of using too many actives on the skin at once, keep your routine simple. Generally, I feel it is best to not layer too many products whether you are using a Retinol or not. It can reduce how well the products work. It may also cause chemical burns, so it is important to avoid chemical peels while using retinol, especially if you have sensitive, delicate skin.
Bottom line if in doubt stop immediately, and the re-introduce slowly and don’t overstimulate your skin with too many actives like Vitamin C, Niacinamide, and Alpha and Beta hydroxy acids – this is about really listening to your skin and treating it with respect.
So we have established that Retinol is a topical derivative of vitamin A and is the most researched anti ageing ingredient in the world.
It increases the amounts of collagen in the skin by inactivating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), the enzymes in the skin which actually break down collagen. It increases cellular turnover and retinol is a potent antioxidant blocking the free radicals that are generated by UV exposure or toxins in the environment, which wreak lead to premature ageing.
There are lots of derivatives of Vitamin A, but he one that has a real affinity with your skin is Retinyl palmitate, which is a mild, yet still very active, form of Vitamin A that is easily tolerated by your skin. It is a high-energy molecule that is extremely desirable to cells, and more than 80% of the Vitamin A found normally in the skin is in the form of Retinyl Palmitate.
Retinoic acid goes by the name of Tretinoin, Retin-A, Renova, and is only available by prescription, yes its role on the skin is powerful but it also has some bad side-effects, so use with caution.
Retinol in the form of retinyl palmitate is the number one ingredient for warding off premature ageing with more research around it than any other ingredient. Working deep in the dermis to reveal youthful, bright skin, promoting cellular repair on a deeper microscopic level. It is also a wonderful multi-tasker that brings a myriad of benefits to the skin.