This treatment creates skincare superhighways in your skin
So ingredients can penetrate deeper.
Dermaroller treatment is used to stimulate the vital processes within your skin.
The device looks a little like a lawn aerator for the skin- yes, you can be forgiven for thinking you’re embarking on an adventure in narcissistic masochism.
It creates pinpricks or tiny micro-injuries that instigate collagen production and jump-start your natural skin rejuvenation.
It’s a penetration enhancer, creating channels in your skin, allowing for as much as 300 per cent greater skincare absorption.
The biggest challenge for us as skin specialists are finding the right balance between the degrees of injury and the best outcome.
This we will explore in this article, and the recommendations we use from our range.
So without further ado, let’s look at your microneedling must-haves and the skincare ingredients you should avoid for the time being.
Step one of Your Skin Healing
Hyaluronic acid becomes the superhero for the micro needlers among you because your skin’s microchannels are open after treatment, and your barrier is impaired.
It seals your skin and promotes rapid rehydration within the upper layers of your skin after the treatment, which we explain in more detail in this article.
It would help if you only used ONLY USE film-forming, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in its pure form with no added nasties that can house microbes like aloe vera, for at least 36 hours after treatment, only once you are confident your skin has set. tied down
H20 hyaluronic complex is the only ingredient we recommend pre, during and post-treatment. It prepares your skin before treatment and enhances “glide” during treatment. Used as aftercare, it seals your skin, soothes, calms, and repairs.
Step Two of Your Skin Healing
Once you are confident your skin is healing, your next step is introducing gentle, non-irritating products containing skin-identical ingredients to help repair your barrier, preferably ones containing ceramides, lipids and cholesterol.
Fortify Barrier Repair Moisturiser contains fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol, ingredients naturally found within your skin’s tissues, which deeply nourish and restore your barrier function.
Ceramides make up 50 per cent of your skin and help keep your skin barrier intact and lock in moisture, both of which are important when you’re microneedling. For speedy healing and less risk of irritation, ceramides are key.
Bio Lipid Complex contains several skin-identical ingredients that help repair and replenish. Super-antioxidants protect from free radicals that weaken your skin’s defences, aiding in wound healing and reducing inflammation.
If you are concerned about scarring, rich in carotenoids and sea buckthorn. In that case, it has excellent results as a natural anti-scar oil—improving the texture of scars by making them softer and less visible.
Check out our barrier repair duo here, containing both Fortify Barrier Repair Cream and Bio Lipid Complex containing skin-identical ingredients, including ceramides and lipids, to restore barrier function and reduce inflammation the heart of all premature ageing.
A clean canvas is your first priority. Cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser. Your hero here is Miracle Cleanse, an oil-cleansing formula rich in fatty acids that removes makeup, dirt, and debris without stripping skin of its essential oils.
Ceramide Barrier Repair Balm has all the benefits of your daily moisturiser but is supercharged to promote your skin’s natural repair process. We wanted to bridge the gap between a moisturiser and severe dryness, and ceramide delivers every time.
Its healing blue tansy, ceramides and exotic butters leave your skin feeling smooth, nourished and hydrated.
Check out the dry skin kit for the complete set of products discussed above.
Step Three of Your Skin Healing
Many treatments show a complete change in skin type and texture.
Enlarged pores, breakouts, skin becoming excessively oily, orange peel texture and thin, fragile and sagging are all problems that need to be addressed with the following actives: where your actives come in.
B+ Niacinamide Complex, the multi-tasking, anti ageing serum, is ideal for helping with that orange peel texture, enlarged pores, daily shine, and dark spots.
A+ Retinoid Complex gently increases skin renewal at the cellular level and stimulates blood flow. It is enhanced with non-irritating retinol for maximum anti-ageing capability whilst mitigating the sensitising potential.
If you need to target breakouts, Resq anti-blemish formula is the perfect antidote.
Porcelain: We offer a unique enzymatic exfoliator that we retail for that is wonderful at retexturing the skin. I also recommend a gentle lactic acid (only if you are not sensitive).
Remember that we are all metabolically different; our skin is the largest organ and can react differently to the next person, so listen to your skin.
The Ingredients to Avoid
What you don’t use is just as important as what you use on your skin.
One must remember that nearly all products have multiple ingredients, and some contain non-degradable substances or microbes that have no place being “injected” into living tissue. These substances also provide a habitat for biofilms associated with antibiotic resistance and chronic infection, increasing the risk of allergies and contact dermatitis.
Needling increases the absorbed dose of your ingredients, so it is not surprising that side effects are magnified. Below are just some of the potential ingredients that can cause problems.
- Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (LMW-HA): It is engineered to be fragmented and is now thought to be a potent stimulus for inflammation and scarring.
- acidic-based products: Glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids are used in chemical peels to remove accumulating dead keratinocyte cells. They gain access to the skin’s deeper layers, asking for trouble if your skin barrier is not intact.
- snail growth factors: The mucus of snails certainly sounds like something out of Harry Potter, but the defensive mucus produced when a snail is under threat is often recommended for facial needling. This has resulted in some people developing nodular granulomatous dermatitis – little disfiguring gnarls of scar tissue in the skin, so a big “no!” in our book.
- vitamin C: We see an influx of people with significant, deep skin problems – including acute inflammation and granulomatous dermatoses – that can last for years. It is not due to Vitamin C per se. Still, the other ingredients in Vitamin C formulas appear to be causing a big issue, so we recommend avoiding using this product if you have had or are going to have dermarolling treatment.
- vaseline: This contains mineral oil, which is not a human molecule and can cause foreign-body inclusion cysts to form.
- preservatives: These are an essential part of skincare products. Typically, these ingredients have been known to cause trouble, all based on dosage and frequency of use. Look for formulas with more natural preservatives in them.
- aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract: This is another ingredient associated with granuloma conditions, which we feel may be due to microbial load within the element.
- anaesthetic toxicity is another issue, but because micro-needling typically requires multiple treatments, the potential for developing an allergic reaction to the anaesthetic is also of concern. As we discussed, allergic reactions can be life-threatening. Therefore, avoiding topical anaesthetic whenever possible; applying ice or a cooling device should be a substitute for topical anaesthesia.
Other ingredients associated with allergy and irritation are fragrance, alcohol, essential oils, methylparaben, propylparaben, mineral oil, sorbitan sesquioleate, titanium dioxide, and benzyl peroxide.
To Conclude. The naked truth
Derma rolling or micro needling causes temporary injury to the following:
- your skin’s barrier function
- knocks your pH off balance
- upsets the delicate microflora that makes up your acid mantle
After treatment, your skin is vulnerable to whatever it comes into contact with, especially potentially sensitising ingredients like fragrance, aloe vera, and acids.
This is why we lay out a three-step approach to treating your skin.
First, it uses only a pure form of hyaluronic acid to seal and heal your skin.
Once you are sure, your skin is healing, use products with skin identical ingredients like ceramides, lipids and cholesterol to heal your barrier and ensure your skin repairs.
The final step recommends using actives like copper peptides to address certain skin conditions that may be showing in your skin due to the treatment.
If you want further help with your skin, please contact us here.