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Dermaroller, is this the holy grail in anti-ageing?

Dermaroller: Is This the Holy Grail in Anti-Ageing?

Skin health begins in the dermis, our skin’s living layer.

Whilst topical application of nutrients is a logical solution; our skin is pretty resilient.

And when you consider damaging UV, pollutants, medications, harsh treatments, and poor absorption of skin nutrients, it’s no wonder our skin gets a bad rap.

Supercharge your skincare routine with intelligent ingredients

We believe the future of skincare, needs to see a significant shift of focus towards delivery systems.

Why? Because to truly fight premature ageing, we need to target dermal and not epidermal activity.

We have started to introduce liposomal delivery into a number of our formulas, which is proven to boost penetration 10-fold over traditional creams.

Liposomes are very similar to the layers of our skin, which means active ingredients transported in liposomes merge easily with the barrier layers. They address the integrity of your dermis, known in the skincare industry as the living layer, which directly affects the health and appearance of our visible layer of skin.

Both Fortify Barrier Repair Cream and Bio Lipid Complex are intelligent anti-ageing formulas that contain liposomal delivery. They have been specifically formulated with skin-identical ingredients including ceramides and lipids, to restore the barrier function and reduce inflammation, which is at the heart of all premature ageing.

If you are new to dermaroller treatment, we really encourage you to read this article before you embark on a course.

Derma roller

This tool is said to be a delivery enhancer. Whilst it looks a little like a lawn aerator for the skin, don’t be alarmed – you’re not embarking on an adventure in narcissistic masochism.

The area is numbed with an anaesthetic, and then the device is moved across your skin in different directions for a period of about half an hour – this is what is said to trigger the natural collagen regeneration, or “wound-healing” process.

Dermarolling is said to stimulate the restorative processes within your body; it works by enlarging pathways through our skin with cosmetic needling, creating pinpricks or tiny micro-injuries which instigate collagen production and jump-starts natural rejuvenation of your skin and triggering your body’s own healing process by stimulating levels of elastin and collagen, which work together to repair damaged skin.

Some of the benefits this treatment is thought to induce are:

  • diminishing fine lines
  • fading stretch marks
  • improving skin texture
  • treating hyperpigmentation
  • stimulating hair growth
  • improving atrophic (rolling, pitting) acne scars
  • breaking down scar tissue, allowing re-organisation of cells

Because the needles create microscopic tunnels, anything you apply afterwards is absorbed quickly; your skin is then said to go through different phases of wound healing:

  • prolonging the inflammatory phase between day 1 to day 5 will result in more growth factors
  • photo-modulation and lymph drainage are improved from day 2-14
  • collagenase peaks at around day 14 to reorganize collagen fibrils, converting collagen 3 to collagen 1

Whilst the majority of modalities used for skin rejuvenation do incorporate the wound-healing process, the biggest challenge for skin specialists is finding the balance between the degrees of injury and the best outcome. Dermarolling is thought to bridge this gap by preserving the epidermis, maintaining environmental protection, and diminishing downtime.

There is a school of thought within the industry that you get extra mileage out of luxe anti-ageing ingredients.

The naked truth – update

When we first wrote this article in April 2017 not much was known about derma rolling, and we concluded that the jury is still out for us.

Things have moved on a lot since then, and on the back of the many referrals we get from clients who have undergone this treatment and experienced side effects, we wrote the article micro-needling beware it can seriously mess with your skin.

If you scroll down to the comments, we think you’ll appreciate that the jury is no longer still out for us, and we no longer offer this treatment in our clinic any more.

For further reading, here’s an article that issues warnings from dermatologists about using such a device at home.

14 thoughts on “Dermaroller, is this the holy grail in anti-ageing?

  1. Vanessa says:

    I had Microneedling done two and half weeks ago and my skin is ruined in areas. It made the crepey area of my neck worse and gave me way more wrinkles under my eyes. I’m crushed that I have to deal with this now. I used to look way younger than 44 and now I look older. Be very careful with this procedure. I went to a highly reputable place and had it done by the woman who does my Botox who has a fantastic reputation in Austin.

  2. Deb DeLeon says:

    Hello all, I to have had micro needling and have not seen much improvement in my skin. I do know, that if it is done too deep that it will definitely lead to dehydration, inflammation and breakdown of skin barrier. It has caused light/heat sensitivity, which has also lead to dermatitis.(Itchy, red, rash on nose , forehead cheeks and chin along with my eyebrows) . After a long search for natural remedies I am going to begin to repair my skin barrier from this tool. I am starting Naked Truth barrier repair balm and A.C.E today. My skin could not tolerate any product on the surface, because it would burn and cause more inflammation and redness. I took Sam’s advice and took a break from all product and used a scarf, hat and sunglasses when out. I began to notice a reduction on the burning and redness. I was desperate and even tried full body cryo therapy to assist in reducing the inflammatory response, which did seem to help after 3 sessions. I want to thank Sam for all the wonderful information and correspondence in this difficult time. The beauty industry in America is flooded with so many products and mis advertisement, that I was soon confused, but Sam provided reassurance and hope.. THANK YOU SAM and NAKED TRUTH!

    • Samantha Miller says:

      Hi Deb This is a really wonderful review thank you so much, I really appreciate it, for many of us to try to treat our skin in terms of anti ageing or irritaion we keep adding more and more product in a bid to be more youthful or calm our skin but the truth is this adds to more inflammation and premature ageing, stripping back and using skin identical ingredients that have lots of research behind them really is the way forward I believe and I really am with you with skin needling. Thankyou once again for this AMAZING review. Samantha

  3. Tiffany says:

    I personally have had really great results with microneedling. I have been able to completely eliminate my fine lines on my forehead and between my brows. I haven’t really noticed too much changes else where but I find it hard to measure anti aging benefits unless of course there are noticeable lines in the skin originally.

  4. Lonnie says:

    I agree with Nate. I’ve had dermaneedling done in the past with great results. But then I messed up my skin w/Retin A overuse. But anyway, have you seen Dr. Des Fernandes lately? He invented needling and he’s needled his own face over 50 times. If there were any long term effects his skin would surely show them. But once again there are so many other factors involved like diet and skin care. But he’s over 70 years old and looks like he’s 50!

    • Samantha Miller says:

      Lonnie and Nate. I am just all about keeping inflammation out of the skin, why? because I have seen way to many side effects and poor skin conditions, some irreversible due to stimulating products and treatments being performed by inexperienced therapists, so the jury is out for me unless I try it first hand and maybe I will someday and write an article about it, but until then I will continue to sit on the fence. Samantha

  5. Nate says:

    Hi Samantha!

    The science seems to be a little more substantial and supportive than it being just a fad. It’s the concept of acute wound healing. When the body suffers an injury that it can easily handle, the response is perfect healing of that area, which brings with it the formation of new blood vessels (which promote oxygen and nutrient delivery).

    The problem, and fear, is if the body can’t heal the wound effectively, which happens if it’s done too often, or too deep, or the person’s immune system is compromised. In that case, the response is, among other things, scar tissue, and eventual hardening of the area (aka less oxygen and fewer nutrients) due to chronic inflammation.

    Going deeper, in order for a body to heal itself correctly, it needs to have the raw materials which promote inflammation and reduce inflammation, as represented by omega 6 and omega 3 fatty acids. If one’s diet provides way too much of the pro-inflammatory omega 6 (cough cough, american high PUFA diet), then the body doesn’t have the necessary raw materials (omega 3) to reduce the inflammation and chronic inflammation sets in to wreck havoc. This is one of the reason why diet is so important for anyone trying to achieve great skin.

    But getting back to micro-needling, if you’re careful about the process, and understand what your body can handle, then acute wound healing may be able to give you benefit in addition to traditional skincare.

    Just my thoughts!


    • Samantha Miller says:

      Hi Nate

      Nice to hear from you. I am totally with you on the Omega fatty acids front, did you read mine on linoleic acid? However the more I work on, and learn about the skin, Nate I am moving more and more away from peels and intensive treatments such as micro-dermabrasion, simply because I have seen what inflammation can do on the skin can do long term, and I am convinced it leads to premature ageing. The other problem we are up against in the industry is therapists carrying out treatments with very little training or experience it is frightening really I see it time and time again, because of high staff turnover. So as i say the jury for me is still out on this treatment. Samantha

    • Samantha Miller says:

      Hi Traci

      i hope you are well. Your right it could be another fad and the more i learn about skin, the more I want to avoid inflammation which is at the route of many skin conditions and premature ageing, so I don’t really think it fits in line with my philosophy long term. But obviously there are for and against with many anti ageing procedures. But agreed lets watch this space time will tell. Regards Samantha

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