Under Eye Skin Care: How to Treat Every Eye Concern

By Samantha Miller, Clinical Esthetician & Founder of The Naked Chemist | Updated: April 2026

The skin around your eyes gives everything away.

Tired, stressed, dehydrated, ageing — it shows up here first, every time. And yet this is the area most people either ignore completely or over-treat to the point of damage.

In thirty years of clinical practice, under eye skin care is the topic I’m asked about most.

Not because people don’t care about it, but because nothing they’ve tried has worked.

The reason is almost always the same.

They’re addressing the wrong concern, using the wrong products, or applying them incorrectly, which makes things worse.

This guide covers every common under-eye concern — what causes it, what to do about it, and where to go for the full deep-dive.

Why Under Eye Skin Care Is Different

The skin beneath your eyes is structurally different from every other area on your face.

At approximately 0.5mm thick, it’s around five times thinner than the skin on your cheeks, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Medicine. It contains fewer oil glands, which means it can’t moisturise itself effectively. It has less collagen, so it loses firmness earlier. And it has no subcutaneous fat layer for cushioning or support.

On top of that, this skin endures constant movement — roughly 10,000 blinks per day — plus squinting, smiling, and rubbing. It’s the hardest-working, least-supported skin on your face.

This is why your regular moisturiser doesn’t belong here. Face creams are typically too heavy, too rich, and formulated for thicker skin. When applied around the eyes, they can clog tear ducts, cause puffiness, and even trigger milia — hard white bumps that require professional extraction.

Effective under eye skin care means lighter textures, fewer ingredients, gentler application, and products formulated specifically for what this area needs.

Dark Circles

Dark circles are among the most common and most misunderstood under-eye concerns. They’re not one condition — they’re four distinct types that often appear together, which is why single-product solutions almost always fail.

Vascular dark circles appear blue or purple from visible blood vessels. Pigmentary dark circles appear brown or grey from excess melanin. Structural dark circles are shadows created by hollowing and volume loss. Lifestyle-related dark circles result from poor sleep, dehydration, and chronic stress.

Each type responds to different ingredients and different approaches. Vitamin C brightens pigmentation. Retinol rebuilds collagen. Peptides improve skin density. Barrier care is essential before any active treatment can work effectively.

For the complete guide to understanding and treating your dark circles, read our in-depth dark circles guide.

Under-Eye Bags

Under-eye bags are different from puffiness and dark circles, though all three are frequently confused. Bags are primarily a structural issue — the fat pads that cushion the eye shift, sag, or herniate with age, creating a visible bulge beneath the eye.

The ligaments and connective tissue that hold these fat pads in place weaken over time. Genetics play a significant role — if your parents had prominent bags, you’re more likely to develop them. Lifestyle factors accelerate the process: smoking reduces collagen production, high sodium intake causes fluid retention, UV exposure breaks down elastin, and chronic eye-rubbing stretches the delicate supporting structures.

Topical treatments can help reduce the appearance — peptides strengthen skin elasticity, caffeine temporarily tightens and reduces puffiness, and barrier-supporting ingredients keep the area hydrated without heaviness. But bags with a significant structural component may eventually require professional intervention, such as fillers or blepharoplasty.

For a full breakdown of causes and treatment options, read our guide to getting rid of bags under eyes.

Puffiness

Puffiness is temporary swelling, usually caused by fluid retention, and it’s different from permanent under-eye bags. It’s often worst in the morning and improves throughout the day as gravity helps drain the accumulated fluid.

The most common triggers are poor sleep, high salt intake, allergies, crying, alcohol, and sleeping flat without head elevation. Sinus congestion can also contribute by increasing blood flow and fluid accumulation around the eyes.

Here’s where it gets interesting. Most people reach for eye cream when they wake up puffy — but the fastest relief actually comes from cold. A chilled compress, cold spoons, or even a cold eye mask for five minutes constricts blood vessels and encourages lymphatic drainage faster than any product can.

For ongoing management, caffeine-based eye treatments can help. Sleeping with your head slightly elevated prevents overnight fluid pooling. And reducing salt intake makes a measurable difference within days.

Fine Lines and Wrinkles

The under-eye area is one of the first places on the face to show visible signs of ageing. Collagen and elastin production decline naturally with age, and because this area has less of both to begin with, the loss shows earlier and more visibly.

Expression lines from squinting, smiling, and screen use compound the structural decline. Sun damage accelerates it significantly — UV exposure is responsible for most of the visible ageing around the eyes.

The most evidence-backed ingredients for under-eye wrinkles are retinol (stimulates collagen production and accelerates cell turnover), peptides (signal structural repair), and consistent use of broad-spectrum SPF (prevents further damage). Hyaluronic acid plumps fine lines temporarily by drawing moisture into the skin.

The key is a gentle introduction. Retinol around the eyes should always start at a low concentration, used 2–3 nights per week, gradually increasing. The under-eye area cannot tolerate the same retinol strength as the rest of your face — and pushing it too fast creates irritation that makes lines look worse, not better.

If you’re squinting to read or use screens, consider prescription glasses in comfortable, designer frames—clearer vision reduces squinting-related strain around the eyes and lets you choose flattering styles that complement your skincare routine.

Dry Skin Around the Eyes

Dryness around the eyes is extremely common because this area has very few active oil glands. Without natural lubrication, the skin relies entirely on what you apply — and what you avoid applying — to maintain its moisture barrier.

Common causes include harsh cleansers, hot water, environmental stress (wind, air conditioning, pollution), contact lens wear, and irritants in cosmetics — particularly fragrance and alcohol. Underlying conditions such as dermatitis, blepharitis, and eczema can also cause chronic dryness around the eyes.

The fix is straightforward but requires discipline. Use a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser. Apply a dedicated eye treatment with ceramides or hyaluronic acid. Avoid waterproof mascara (which requires aggressive removal). Remove makeup by pressing and dissolving, never rubbing. And protect the area with SPF daily.

For the complete guide to managing this concern, read our article on dry skin around the eyes.

Milia

Milia are small, hard, white bumps that form when dead skin cells become trapped beneath the skin’s surface. They’re common around the eyes and are often mistaken for whiteheads — but unlike acne, they can’t be squeezed out.

The most common cause is using products that are too heavy or occlusive for the under-eye area. Rich face creams, heavy oils, and thick primers applied too close to the eye can create the conditions for milia to form.

Never attempt to extract milia yourself. The skin around the eyes is too thin and too fragile — self-extraction risks scarring, broken capillaries, and infection. Professional extraction by a trained esthetician is quick, safe, and leaves no lasting damage.

Prevention is simple: use eye-specific products (not face cream), apply only a pea-sized amount, keep products away from the lash line and eyelid, and avoid heavy occlusives in this area.

Sensitivity and Irritation

The under-eye area is particularly prone to sensitivity because its thin barrier is more easily disrupted than the rest of the face. Fragrances, preservatives, essential oils, and alcohol in skincare products are the most common triggers.

Allergies — both seasonal and contact — can also cause redness, itching, swelling, and flaking around the eyes. Airborne allergens like pollen and dust react with the thin eyelid skin more readily than with thicker facial skin.

If your under-eye area is persistently red, itchy, or flaking, stop all products and return to a single gentle moisturiser until the skin calms. Then reintroduce products one at a time, waiting a week between each addition, to identify which ingredient is causing the reaction.

This is the part most people skip. They assume the irritation will settle on its own and keep applying everything. It won’t. The barrier needs space to recover before it can tolerate active ingredients again.

How to Apply Eye Products Correctly

Application technique is responsible for more under-eye damage than wrong product choice. In the clinic, I see it constantly — clients using the right ingredients but applying them in ways that create the problems they’re trying to fix.

Use your ring finger. It’s the weakest finger on your hand and naturally applies the lightest pressure. The index and middle fingers apply 3–4 times more force than the under-eye area can handle.

Tap, never drag. Place a small amount of product on your ring finger. Starting at the inner corner of the eye, tap gently along the orbital bone, moving outward toward the temple. Then, along the brow bone from the outer corner back inward. Never apply directly to the eyelid.

Use a pea-sized amount. More product doesn’t mean more results. Excess product migrates into the eye, causing puffiness and potentially triggering milia. A tiny amount, applied consistently, delivers better results than a generous blob applied occasionally.

Wait before layering. Allow 60 seconds between each product to let it absorb. Rushing creates pilling, reduces absorption, and wastes product.

Remove makeup gently. Press a soaked cotton pad onto the closed eye for 10 seconds. Let the product dissolve the makeup. Then wipe downward in one smooth motion. No rubbing. No scrubbing. No pulling.

Common Mistakes That Damage the Under-Eye Area

The patterns I see in the clinic are remarkably consistent. Most under-eye damage isn’t caused by neglect — good intentions cause it when applied incorrectly.

Using face cream as eye cream. Face moisturisers are typically too heavy for the under-eye area. They can block tear ducts, cause puffiness, and create milia. This area needs its own lightweight, targeted formulation.

Over-treating with actives. Retinol, vitamin C, acids, and peptides are all stacked on the thinnest skin on your face. The barrier collapses, inflammation rises, and every concern worsens. One or two targeted treatments, applied consistently, always outperform five stacked aggressively.

Rubbing and tugging. Every rub when applying products, removing makeup, or scratching an itch creates micro-damage that accumulates over the years. The result is premature wrinkles, increased pigmentation, and weakened skin structure.

Skipping SPF. UV damage is the single biggest driver of visible ageing around the eyes. No eye cream compensates for unprotected daily sun exposure.

Expecting overnight results. Under-eye skin cell turnover takes around 28 days. Meaningful structural improvement takes 8–12 weeks. Changing products every fortnight guarantees nothing gets a fair chance to work.

Sound familiar? You’re not alone.

If the skin around your eyes has felt increasingly difficult to manage — more reactive, more tired-looking, less responsive to products — the answer is rarely another eye cream. It’s a return to the basics. A gentle cleanser. One targeted treatment. Barrier support. SPF. And the discipline to stick with it.

That’s the philosophy every Naked Chemist formulation is built on. For our full range of eye-area treatments, explore the Naked Chemist eye care collection.

FAQ: Under Eye Skin Care

Do I really need a separate eye cream?

Yes. The under-eye area has fewer oil glands, less collagen, and a thinner barrier than the rest of your face. Regular face cream is typically too heavy — it can cause puffiness, block tear ducts, and trigger milia. A dedicated eye treatment is lighter, gentler, and formulated for this area’s actual needs.

What is the best ingredient for under-eye wrinkles?

Retinol has the strongest evidence base for stimulating collagen and reducing fine lines. Peptides support structural repair. Hyaluronic acid plumps temporarily. And daily SPF prevents the UV damage that causes most visible ageing around the eyes. The most effective approach combines these gradually.

Why are my under-eye products making things worse?

Usually, because the barrier is already compromised — from over-treatment, harsh ingredients, or rough application — even good ingredients can irritate when the barrier is damaged. Stop all actives, return to a gentle moisturiser only, let the skin calm for 2–4 weeks, then reintroduce products one at a time.

How should I apply eye cream?

Use your ring finger (lightest pressure). Tap a pea-sized amount along the orbital bone, starting at the inner corner and moving outward. Never drag, rub, or apply directly on the eyelid. Wait 60 seconds between products for proper absorption.

Can under-eye bags be treated without surgery?

Mild bags can be improved with peptides, caffeine, and barrier-supporting care. Lifestyle changes — better sleep, reduced salt intake, and head elevation — also help. Significant structural bags caused by fat herniation may eventually need professional treatment, but many people see meaningful improvement from consistent skincare alone.

What causes milia around the eyes?

Milia form when dead skin cells get trapped beneath the surface, creating small, hard, white bumps. The most common cause is using products that are too heavy or occlusive for the under-eye area. Prevention means using eye-specific products in small amounts, avoiding heavy face creams near the eyes, and never attempting self-extraction.