Are you concerned about the health of your skin?
Do you notice that your skin or even your hair and nails are dry, brittle?
Then there is one ingredient that you may want to look out for, panthenol.
An unsung beauty hero that has to be one of the most beneficial beauty ingredients of all time.
Panthenol rarely earns a starring role in skincare, but it has so much going for it.
There is always such a beauty buzz around Vitamins A, C, E, they are like the leading role in a movie; everyone knows who they are.
As true skincare aficionados, we’d love to introduce you to a lesser-known supporting actor, in the form of panthenol, which has some amazing benefits too.
What is Panthenol
Known in the beauty industry as provitamin B5 and dexpanthenol, D-pantothenyl, butanamide, it is a more stable alcohol derivative of pantothenic acid or vitamin B5.
Found in all living cells, both plant and animal, panthenol is a normal component of skin and hair and is essential for normal metabolism and hormone production.
It is readily absorbed by the skin, where it turns into pantothenic acid, encouraging cellular growth.
It is great for all skin types, particularly those with dry, flaky, sensitive skin and functions primarily as a lubricant, emollient and moisturiser.
A deficiency in vitamin B5 in the skin can result in serious dermatological disorders, which shows the importance of this ingredient in maintaining healthy skin.
The beautifying benefits of panthenol
Panthenol is present in all living cells, which makes it the perfect ingredient for skincare:
Penetrative: When panthenol is applied to your skin, it results in a conversion to pantothenic acid – from here it is readily absorbed, penetrating deep into the lower layers.
Hydrating: Panthenol has a distinct humectant character, its hygroscopic properties mean, not only does it bring water to the surface of your skin, but it also penetrates deep into the epidermis infusing water in the cells, retaining moisture deep within your tissues.
Moisturising: It is considered a mega moisturiser because of its emollient properties, it helps to lighten scars and stretch marks and has wound-healing properties – leaving the skin soft, smooth, and supple.
Anti-inflammatory: Panthenol is extremely moisturising when regularly used over a period of four weeks or more, it takes on an anti-inflammatory role; relieving systemic itching, whilst also helping to soothe dry skin.
Barrier repairing: Panthenol-based formulations significantly can increase the moisture of your skin, which means it has important beneficial effects on your skins barrier function, by decreasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). A study carried out on the topical effects of panthenol, found that concentrations of pro-vitamin also influenced the barrier function’s improvement. Just one per cent panthenol added to a formulation showed that panthenol’s moisturising effects could be attributed mainly to the skin barrier’s protective properties. The study also found that a deficiency in panthenol can result in dermatological disorders, explaining its anti-inflammatory properties.
Wound healing: When panthenol is applied topically, it stimulates skin cells’ epithelization as shown by Weiser and Erlemann. In this research, superficial wounds treated with creams containing around 5% panthenol, reduced skin healing by about 30% compared with the placebo. Favourable results were also reported in several inflammatory skin disorders, including burns, eczema, nipple fissures, etc. What we can draw from this, is that panthenol may be useful in the application of derma products and wound healing, especially when incorporated in topical concentrations of around 5%, it may also be an important ingredient in maintaining physiological skin conditions, soothing inflammatory disorders and preventing dry skin conditions.
Panthenol for your hair
You don’t get very far in the beauty industry, without hearing about the wonderful affinity panthenol has on the hair. This is because it is actually a major constituent of our hair.
The use of panthenol in haircare products goes back to the early 1960s when inflammatory reactions on the scalp were treated with panthenol-containing creams. Panthenol not only showed a soothing effect but also had beneficial effects on the hair.
Penetrative: It has a unique way of penetrating deep into the hair’s core; when it is left on for five minutes or more, it swells the hair shaft – giving your hair more body.
Protective: It naturally creates a film of moisture on the hair shaft, giving your hair added protection.
Moisturising: Panthenol’s ability to regulate moisture content whilst increasing resistance to damage and brittleness, makes it a wonderful moisturising ingredient.
Hoffman La Roche, a Swiss pharmacist, carried out several studies on this fascinating ingredient. What he found was, when it is converted to vitamin B5 in the hair shaft, it creates an extremely hydrating environment that keeps your hair wonderfully moisturised for long periods of time.
Another great humectant that adds gloss and shines to the hair is glycerine, which we discuss in the article, “What is glycerine and how effective is it in Skincare.
Panthenol for your nails
Several studies on nail care have found, that panthenol also works well with keratin, the protein found within your skin and nails.
It can penetrate the nail plate at a depth of 0.2mm, helping to protect and repair soft, damaged nails. It is also extremely hydrating to nails that are dry or brittle.
Properties and uses
So, let’s recap on panthenol’s amazing roles within the skin:
- it behaves as a humectant
- it is an effective emollient
- it is deeply penetrating
- it offers long-lasting moisturisation
- it is great if you have irritated skin, as it is very soothing
- it helps to improve your skin’s barrier function
- it helps to promote wound healing
- it is easily absorbed into the nail bed, helping to improve nail hydration and flexibility
- applied topically to your skin or hair, it undergoes a bio-conversion that converts it to pantothenic acid – a natural ingredient in your hair and skin
- it is essential for epithelial function and cellular rejuvenation, promoting normal skin keratinisation
If you want to know how to harness this wonder ingredient in your skincare routine, look no further because it is a popular ingredient found in many Naked Chemist products.
Pantothenic acid an overview: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/chemistry/pantothenic-acid
In vivo efficiency, properties containing panthenol: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.12527
What is panthenol: https://www.cherie.com/campaign/6836542425066897413/%F0%9F%99%8CWhat-is-Panthenol-Why-is-it-in-Cosmetics-and-is-it-Safe
Topical use of de panthenol: https://pillbuys.com/research/Dexpanthenol/21.pdf