Since its creation, B+ has quickly become a hero product, the “go-to” formula for many clients.
Especially those with dark spots, expression lines, acne inflammation, or whose skin is stressed, out of balance, or on the verge of a breakout.
Working as an aesthetician for over 25 years, I have witnessed Niacinamide’s (Vitamin B3) affinity with the skin. It wards off signs of premature ageing, but it is also very balancing, clearing congested pores whilst regulating the flow of sebum, making it ideal for oily skin prone to breakouts.
The treatment of ageing: A precursor for co-factors NAD(H)and NADP(H), essential in various cellular pathways affecting skin physiology. NADH and NADPH decrease with age; therefore, supplementing your skin with Niacinamide provides unique anti-ageing benefits. One of these benefits is that it enhances barrier function. NADPH is a cofactor for synthesising Lipids, including Ceramides and Fatty Acids, which are crucial for barrier function. A compromised barrier function is prevalent in ageing skin and can contribute to heightened sensitivity and irritation by allowing external insults to enter your skin quickly. Several studies have demonstrated that regular application of topical Niacinamide reduces sensitivity to skin-irritating ingredients and helps to improve the tolerability of elements such as Retinoids. In addition, Niacinamide increases the production of the proteins Keratin, Involucrin, and Filaggrin – essential factors in forming and maintaining the cornified, outermost layer of the skin.
Niacinamide also reduces expression lines after prolonged use; a 12-week study of topical 5% Niacinamide cream demonstrated a 21% improvement in expression lines and 14% improved clarity in skin tone. In vitro studies also suggest that Niacinamide increases dermal collagen production and reduces excess dermal glycosaminoglycan production. Hence, skin is more supple, and as little as 4% Niacinamide, used over three months, can significantly improve hyperpigmentation.
The treatment of oily, acne-prone skin: Niacinamide reduces sebum production, making it a valuable ingredient for those who desire skin rejuvenation but may be acne-prone. Its anti-inflammatory properties are primarily helpful for those with papules and pustules. Clinically, it improves skin texture and reduces pore size, protecting pores from stretching further when exposed to damaging UV light.
The treatment of hyperpigmentation: This is also the perfect product for those concerned with sun damage, melasma, or Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH). In vivo studies have demonstrated the efficacy of Niacinamide at preventing and reducing pigmentation. One study found that as little as 5% Niacinamide, used twice daily for 12 weeks, contained seasonal-induced increases in pigmentation when UV levels were at their strongest. Another study found that 2% Niacinamide increased skin lightening in as little as four weeks. In vitro studies show that Niacinamide can decrease melanosomes’ transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes by 65%, preventing pigment from leaking into the skin cells.
Some of the most extensive research around hyperpigmentation is with N-Acetyl Glucosamine’s (NAG) ingredients, which we have included in the formula. In a clinical study, 2% applied topically was shown to reduce hyperpigmentation significantly. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase activation, the enzyme involved in melanin synthesis, and when combined with 4% Niacinamide, the pigmentation-reducing effect is even more significant. We have combined both N-acetyl glucosamine and Niacinamide in the B+ complex.
Repairing the barrier function: Niacinamide stimulates the synthesis of ceramides, which is significant when alleviating dry skin concerns and calming inflammatory markers. NAG is another skin-identical ingredient that maintains the barrier and reduces dryness, increasing moisture content and collagen production in your skin.
We are excited about the results B+ brings to the skin, visibly warding off signs of ageing and balancing and targeting dark spots whilst helping to strengthen and re-densify blemished, thin skin, reducing signs of inflammation and redness.
Note: The high concentration of B-Vitamins makes this a powerful skin shot. Use your Vitamin C complex at the opposite end of the day, as they may cancel each other out.