Rose hips of Rosa rugosa

Rose hips of Rosa rugosa

Precious rose hip seed oil.

This fabulous oil should be a staple in every ones skin care kit.

Simply because it has so many benefits.

But be warned careful shoppers, this is not the cheapest oil on the market, because extraction is so labour intensive.


The Extraction Process

The oil is hand picked from the hips of the wild rose.

The extraction process is complex and involves drying, de-hipping and the removal of irritants, followed by pressing.

The rose grows in thick spiny bushes, these bushes are there to protect the delicate flowers and tiny seeds, which are attached to the hair like fronds, this is the basis of itching powder.

Extraction is known as winterisation, where heavy waxes are removed by refrigeration.

This is an intricate process, which allows for the rose hip seed oil to be more workable and user friendly.

Properties and Uses

It is used in many different face care preparations, for the purpose of cellular regeneration.

Anti scarring agent: Research shows the presence of large amounts of linoleic and linolenic fatty acids in rose hip seed oil.

This is why it is one of the most effective oils in treating both hypertrophic and keloid scars, the oil is known to significantly help reduce the look of aged, hardened scars.

Anti wrinkle oil: Rose hip seed oil helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, slowing down the skin ageing process.

Anti-inflammatory agent: The fact that rose hip seed oil is chock full of linoleic acid and linolenic acid, means its perfect for a sensitised, inflamed skin.

Anti Ageing: It is also believed to contain the precursor to vitamin A, known as trans-retinoid acid or tretinoin, which is why it is so good for warding of premature ageing.

Burns: Because of the oils natural Vitamin A content, its great for treating skin infections.

It is also useful in the treatment of damaged skin tissue caused by scalds, burns, stretch marks and varicose veins, which is due to its ability to encourage skin regeneration.

Cellular rejuvenation: Many clinical trials have proved that rose hip seed oil is an exceptional product in the field of tissue regeneration, helping to improve skin texture and discolouration.

Hydrating: The oil is rich in Fatty Acids which help to keep our skins cells healthy.

As we age our skin naturally starts to dry and loose water, fatty acids work to keep the skin plump and moist, preventing it from drying out.


The first study on rose hip seed oil was carried out in 1983 at the University of Santiago, Chile. Participants used all had different skin conditions from sun damaged skin, premature ageing, burns, acne scarring, eczema, dermatitis and so on.

Interestingly what was found, is that rose hip seed oil was shown to have significant noticeable effects in skin regeneration, restoring skin back to it’s youthful glow.


  • The oil is considered a dry oil with little slippage
  • Rose hip seed oil can be applied neat on the skin or within a formulation. Using it neat suits many of my customers. I have seen good results with inclusions as low as 10%
  • Because the oil has high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids, it naturally has a very short shelf life, less than 6 months
  • I always add O.5% vitamin E to my oil, which you can also do if you buy it neat
  • I only use a CO2 extract of the oil, which is known to have higher level of linoleum and linolenic acid


Palmitic acid 3.6%
Stearic acid 2.15%
Oleic acid 15%
Linoleic acid 47.7%
Linolenic acid 28.5%
Arachidic acid 0.9%
Eicosenoic acid 0.45%
Eicosadienoic acid o. 15%
Behenic acid 0.2%Docosenoic acid 0.15%
E-vitamin – Natural d-alpha Tocopherol; 0.0001%


3-5% Sea Buckthorn
2-3% Carrot seed
1% Calendula CO2
1% Rosemary
3% Helichrysum, known for its regenerative ketones

Add all of this to your rose hip seed oil base.


For those thinking of purchasing the oil, when it comes to the purity and the active nature of the oil you need to be careful, the cold pressed version doesn’t have a long shelf life and can quickly go rancid.

I only use a CO2 Extract that is certified organic, which is obtained by supercritical extraction, where carbon dioxide is used as the solvent.

The oil is then further stabilised with rosemary antioxidant, that is also a CO2 extract.

One a final note, there are often reports that Rose hip seed oil contains Vitamin C a key repairing ingredient responsible for the production of collagen.

However much of the vitamin C in rose hips is destroyed during the drying and refining process and also it declines rapidly during storage.

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