So far I have discussed a lot, when it comes to creating your lovely home made skin care products.

Yesterday I looked at heating and holding ingredients, which you can read all about here.

You can also read the following steps here in creating simple skin care lotions.

For the purpose of today article, I want to look at the percentages of different ingredients and at what phase they need to be added.

Ingredient Inclusion

Allantoin: Use in the heated water phase, this will help to increases the solubility of allantoin.

You can add it to the oil phase, but it won’t dissolve correctly and will feel gritty.

Allantoin can recrystallise (glass shards) at above 0.5% so are best added at no more than 0.5%

Cocoa Butter: Add to the heated oil phase.

If you want to add an occlusion to your product without making it to thick, add up to 2% dimethicone.

Percentage: Use up to 5 to 10% depending on how hard you want your formula

Cyclomethicone: Cyclomethicone is volatile so, for safety, should be added to the cool down phase,ensure you stir regularly to emulsify

Percentage: You can use anywhere between 1 to 100% in your formulas

DMAE: Water soluble, add to the cool down phase

Percentage: 1% to 3%, any higher and it can destabilise a lotion

Dimethicone: Best added in the heated oil phase (they can withstand temp 70-75C) for a more stable emulsion (smaller micelles).

Percentage: Add up to 5%

D. Panthenol: The powdered form of panthenol should be added to the water phase.

However it is more soluble in its sodium form, the liquid form should be added to the cool down phase.

Percentage: 1 to 5%

Dri Silc/Silica

Add at the point when you combine the oil and water phase, as it is oil soluble and needs to be fully dispersed and saturated.

Ideally silica is best used if you have a homogeniser.

Percentage: 2 to 10%

Dry Flo/Modified Corn Starch Add to the heated water or oil phase, but add to a cup first, blend and then add to your formula or it will go really lumpy.

Percentage: 0.5 to 1%

Extracts: These have a boiling point, so add to the water phase once cooled down

Percentages will vary depending on the extract

Guar Gum or Guar Conditioner: This product must be hydrated well ahead of time in a portion of room temperature water taken from your recipe.

Mix really well with a hand mixer, you can hand blend but be careful as you don’t want to create too many bubbles.

Next allow to stand for at least 10 to 15 minutes or until it is well hydrated, at this stage it will form a gel consistency.

Basically guar gum needs to disperse effectively, before you add it to the rest of the water phase.

Once complete you can continue with the heating and holding phase of all your water ingredients including the guar gum.

Percentage: 0.2 to 5%

Glycerine: It is a very heat resistant product, and be warned it can make a formula very sticky!

Percentage: 3-5% Be careful as it can make your formulas tacky.

Follow the link for more information on glycerine.

Honeyquat: Add to the cool down phase

Percentage: Use up to 5%

Hyaluronic acid: Add to the water phase

Percentage: 0.05%

IPM: Add to the heated water phase

Percentage: Use up to 5%

Niacinamide: It doesn’t need pre-dissolving— just put it in the heated water phase.

Percentage: Use up to 2%

Sodium PCA: Add to the heated water phase

Percentage: Use up to 2%

Vitamin E: Like dimethicone it is best added in the heated oil phase (they can withstand temp 70-75C) for a more stable emulsion (smaller micelles).

Notes

If you are leaving out ESO or fragrance increase the water phase; be careful when adding clay to a formula as it absorbs water

Well now we have got the terminology and really technical stuff out the way,

Join us tomorrow when we look at how to create how to make cream, and what you will need to get you started.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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