Unsightly pigmentation, don’t get angry get even
If you want to know how to lighten your skin, then I’ve got you covered.
As I explore everything you need to know about this complicated condition.
There are a variety of solutions to treat hyperpigmentation, from brightening skincare products to peels and lasers.
But the real key to treating hyperpigmentation, needs to be governed by the type of pigmentation you have, as not every treatment works on all forms of pigmentation.
Ideally you need to have a 3 pronged approach:
- First you need to exfoliate to clear any dead cells from the skins surface and any existing melanin build up, this will also boost circulation to get the skins cellular turnover cranking.
- The second line of attack is to reduce melanin damage, by using ingredients that destroy pigment.
- The third is to inhibit the production of melanin targeted areas, this is a fine line, you don’t want it to be to destructive because remember that melanin is one of your skin’s protective mechanisms, you still need as much of it as possible to help protect your from the sun.
A look t some hero ingredients
Today’s pigmented skincare consists of a combination of topical treatments.
These include a mix of Vitamins A and C, antioxidants and tyrosinase inhibitors which limit melanin synthesis.
Lately Vitamin B is also getting good press, for stopping the transfer of melanin to neighboring skin cells and lessening the appearance of pigment.
The epidermal type responds better to treatment than others, because the pigment is closer to the skins surface.
Because hyperpigmentation is such a persistent condition, it requires a lot of daily care to resolve.
This ingredient is one of the most widely used ingredients for amping up your brightness levels, it also evens out skin tone.
It is a valuable antioxidant, helping to prevent pigmentation by strengthening your skin’s natural resistance to UV and it is also a tyrosinase inhibitor.
Topical retinoids such as tretinoin 0.05-0.1% are often used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation.
Retinoids work by speeding up epidermal exfoliation, however results don’t occur over night and can take up to six month or more to achieve visible results..
There is also a school of thought, that retinoids reduce melanin synthesis by turning off tyrosinase.
In clients who do not respond to tyrosinase inhibitors, by adding in tretinoin into the mix, I have found results do appear to be more effective.
Retinoic acid is of course the go to ingredient for cellular renewal and collagen replenishment, helping to create ageless, clear skin.
The most common hyperpigmentation ingredient is hydroquinone, a phenolic hypo pigmenting agent that works by reducing the production of melanin in the skin, this it does by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase.
There is however lot of controversy around this ingredient, which you can read in the article hydroquinone, is this toxic beauty at its best.
Laser resurfacing may be an option
Skin resurfacing whether with a laser or a chemical agent, may significantly reduce pigmented lesions.
How does it work?
These lasers remove pigmentation and freckles through light in the green yellow range, which actively absorbs the pigment in freckles or age spots, this they do without harming surrounding tissue.
What should I expect?
Often light freckles and pigmentation can disappear during treatment, or in some cases results may become more obvious after around 10-14 days.
Those with large areas of pigment, will find a few sessions will help to significantly reduce the marks.
How many treatments are required?
The number of treatments you require may vary, depending upon the amount of freckles or pigment you have on your skin, it is common after two to three treatments you will see visible results.
Is treatment painful?
It is possible that you may feel a slight stinging, piercing sensation during your pigmentation removal, redness will also be apparent but usually settles down after a couple of hours.
If your keen to learn more about lasers, this article does a great job of discussing the treatment.
Cryotherapy, whats that then?
This treatment is useful for treating small, localised hyperpigmented lesions such as age spots. It freezes the lesion and in some cases can be as effective as laser treatment.
My professional clinical advice
The real key to knowing how to lighten skin, or removing and fading pigment is to use a combination of products and treatments, whilst also determining what works best for your skin type.
Superficial pigmentation is classed as sun damaged skin such as freckles and spots.
Solution: Candela ATV is a type of laser that is very well absorbed by cells, which contain excessive concentrations of pigment.
Hormonal pigmentation sits deep within the dermal layers of the skin and is particularly stubborn.
Solution: The active ingredients found in peels penetrate deep into the dermis, to help disperse pigmentation.12% buffered glycolic peel is often recommended to treat stubborn pigmentation.
Any damage to the skin in the form of scarring or picking breakouts can cause trauma to the epidermis, your outer layer of skin.
When this happens the skins defense mechanism kicks in, bringing melanin to the site of the injury, so apart from the obvious transfer of bacteria when picking your skin, it can also create pigmented marks.
Solution: Regular use of products with active ingredients used as part of a home care regime will help to significantly fade pigmentation over time.
There is a school of thought that peels and lasers can do more harm then good, causing inflammation in the skin, this is a theory I am leaning much more towards, especially as inflammation is the number one cause of premature ageing.
I do however feel that it is up to the individual to try out different methods of pigment removal, until they get the results they are looking for.
THE NAKED TRUTH
Lancome has been focusing on how to lighten skin for many years.
On the back of this they have created a range of bespoke skin correctors, to cater for 3 different pigmentation profiles.
Their research has found that skin complexities change in terms of both shade and evenness.
They discovered that melanocytes are not the only trigger, but also the surrounding environment of those melanin producing cells.
It appears that UV damage, hormonal changes and inflammation not only stimulates the melanocytes to create more melanin, it also damages the surrounding environment including fibroblasts, that are responsible for our skins structure, leading to hyper-pigmentation.
This means that damage not only occurs in the basal layer of our epidermis where melanocytes appear, but it seems that changes also occur in the dermis.
Decoding these processes, and demonstrating the major role of that the dermis has in skin pigmentation is really important, to the point where it actually revolutionises pigment disorder treatments.
An important scientific breakthrough, that means pigmentation is also altered and controlled by fibroblasts in the dermal cells.